Research On The Structure Of Chinese Traditional Robe

Our country has always been known as the"Clothing beautiful country"the beautyful and dignified traditional costumes make countless Chinese people proud.With the increasing emphasis on traditional clothing research since the 18th National Congress of the Communist Party of China,how to make the clothing culture hidden in the literature or the clothing collected in the museum application has become one of the research direction of current scholars.As an important category of traditional costumes,robes have a very long history of evolution,reflecting the social development at that time and people’s spiritual value pursuit and ideological and cultural heritage.The in-depth study and combing of the structure of the robe can enrich the traditional costume culture,understand the aesthetic thought of Chinese traditional costume culture,and promote the development of China’s costume culture industry.This paper combs the concept,types and characteristics of gowns through literature survey.The relationship between clothing structure and human body was explored through data analysis and sample clothing production.According to the method of empirical investigation,the collar structure,sleeve structure,pendulum structure and flap structure of the gown are classified in detail.Using the ordered logistic analysis method,the oblique yarn angle and comfort feeling of the collar edge are analyzed.The results show that the comfort of the collar edge in the 0-20°yarn direction is poor,the 20°yarn direction is the inflection point of comfort,and the comfort of the 25-35°yarn direction is significantly improved.By using the method of regression analysis,the relationship between the width of different cuffs and the angle of cuff edge angle and the length of the cloth used is analyzed.The results show that the folding angle A1 and the width of the cuff S1 are highly negatively correlated,and the relationship obeys A1=160.727-1.709*S1.The length of the cloth L1and the width of the cuff S1 are highly positively correlated,and the relationship obeys L1=-5.427+2.131*S1.Using the method of curve regression,the relationship between the angleθof the skew yarn and the length T1 after the elongation of the swing edge is analyzed.The results show that the cubic curve fitting degree is the best,and the relationship between them obeys T₁=115.371+0.496θ-0.008θ².At the same time,according to the demand of the lower swing circumference and the principle of saving material,it is judged that 36°is the better swing edge yarn direction.The K-means clustering analysis method was used to analyze the gap between the ancient robe and the waist of the human body.The results showed that the gap between the men’s robe and the waist of the human body in the Ming and Qing Dynasties was relatively uniform,with a value of about 9.46 cm.The gap between the ancient women’s gown and the waist of the human body is mostly about 6.83 cm.Based on the fact that the way of modern cultural communication is more intelligent and digital,this paper adopts the interdisciplinary research method to combine the knowledge of gown structure with We Chat.