Research And Practice On Innovative Digital Jacquard Fabric Based On Half-backed Structure

This research belongs to innovation design in the field of digital jacquard. Based onlayered-combination design mode and partial-backed structural effect, this paper presents aninnovative structure design method named “half-backed structure design” for digital jacquardfabric. The digital jacquard fabric produced by half-backed compound structure will exhibitunique half-backed effect that only half of the threads are in a state of random covered effect. Itis envisaged that the design method of half-backed structure proposed in this paper is of greatbenefit to design innovation of digital jacquard, and the fabrics produced by this method pose noproblem in mass production.Firstly, compound structures designed under layered-combination design mode can bebasically divided into three types: backed, no-backed and partial backed. And the research for thepartial backed compound structure is hardly found in the current literature although it hasabundant structure variations. Based on layered-combination design mode, a regular half-backedstructure which is a kind of partial backed compound structure is presented in this article. Thishalf-backed compound structure can be used to design digital jacquard fabric with two or fourgray layers. The design principle and processes are that set up half-backed technical pointsbefore designing gamut weaves; and then, design single-layered fabric structure with such kindgamut weaves; finally, combine several single-layer structures to form half-backed effectcompound structure in which half-backed technical points are remained.Then, a detailed study on the structural characteristics of the half-backed compoundstructure is discussed detailedly. For the half-backed compound structure with two layers, weftsbetween these two groups will have covered relationship. It leads three types of color effect onfabric surface: the color of the first group wefts, the color of the second group wefts and themixed color of these two groups. For the half-backed compound structure with four layers, thefirst group wefts only have covered relationship with the fourth group wefts, and the secondgroup wefts only have covered relationship with the third group wefts. And the color effect on fabric surface can be divided into nine types.Based on detailed analysis of half-backed structure, it can be imaged that changing the orderof layers or using wefts with different thickness can make the surface of the fabric exhibitdifferent color effect. Using these methods, digital jacquard fabrics with different innovativeeffect are developed in this paper, including the magic-color effect, the grid effect, and thecombined effect of wefts with different thickness.This study of design principles and methods of half-backed structure is a new structuredesign research in the field of digital jacquard design under the layered-combination designmode. Based on the half-backed compound structure, half of the threads are in a state of randomcovered effect. Because of this, characteristics of color performance under half-backed structureare more complex and changing than which under full-color structure. So the half-backedstructure does not apply to develop digital jacquard fabric with simulation effect. But combiningit with layered-combination design mode, millions of mixed colors also can be showed on thesurface of a digital jacquard fabric. Thus the half-backed structure can offers a novel-colorshading effect and applies to develop digital jacquard fabric with different innovation effects. Itis envisaged that the fabrics produced by the design method of half-backed structure meet wellthe technical requirement of balanced interlacement and pose no problem in mass production.The results of design research and design practice proposed in this paper have proved thathalf-backed structure design benefited well the design creations through its ability to innovatenew fabric effect that are otherwise not possible before, and also have broadened the creativescope of digital jacquard fabric design under layered-combination design mode.