Research And Practice Of Double-face Jacquard Fabric Under Layered-combination Design Mode

Face and back sides of double-face jacquard fabric both can express textured effects that interwoven by warps and wefts.Subject to the traditional single-plane mode,double-face jacquard structure design is very complicated,and the number of colors on face and back patterns is limited(generally less than 32).Different from the design principle under traditional single-plane mode,this paper presents an innovative design principle and method of double-face jacquard fabric based on digital layered-combination mode.And its innovation lies in the following three aspects: upper and lower structures that designed by setting full-color technical weave points run the gamut from warp face to weft face,and are able to realized novel-color shading effect on both face and back sides of double-face jacquard fabric respectively;regular stitch weaves for bonding the upper and lower layers,concluding self-stitch weaves and center weft stitch weaves,generated from fullcolor technical weave points can make the face and back sides picturesque and the double-face weave structure stay balanced and stable,so it can meet the technical requirement of mass production;a system of innovative double-face jacquard fabric varieties is built based on basic design and extra design of double-layer jacquard structure that realized by changing the combination way of upper and lower atructures and stitch weaves.This paper verifies the availability of double-face jacquard fabric design principle and method under layered-combination mode through design practices,and proves the application value by novel double-face jacquard fabric products development at the same time.The research content of this paper is mainly divided into three parts: design principle research,design method research,and innovative products development of double-face jacquard fabric under layered-combination mode.Firstly,for the technical request to express novel-color shading effect on both face and back sides of double-face jacquard fabric,the framework of double-face jacquard fabric design research is built under layered-combination mode.As a design research,it includes double-face jacquard fabric design approaches with three stitching ways of self-stitching,center weft stitching and layer-exchanging in addition to design principle of upper and lower layer structures and regular stitch weaves.Regular self-stitching and center weft stitching for bonding the upper and lower structures and technical problem of precisely expressing novel-color shading effect on both face and back sides are solved by setting full-color technical weave points.Moreover,based on the double-face jacquard fabric design with self-stitching and center weft stitching,extra design principle of double-face jacquard fabric is proposed by changing the combination way of upper and lower structures and stitch weaves.This paper has changed the traditional single-plane mode of double-face jacquard at source,and broke the color expression restrict of double-face jacquard fabric produced in traditional way.Secondly,this paper has studied the regularity of surface pigmenting on double-face jacquard fabric under layered-combination mode by color tests.Double-face full-color jacquard fabric color swatch specimens with self-stitching and center weft stitching respectively are produced with two sets of wefts on each sides.The pigmenting regularity of full-color shading weaves on face and back sides of double-face jacquard fabric,the pigmenting difference between the compound fullcolor weaves and coverable full-color weaves on color swatch fabrics,and the influencing mechanism of center wefts to the surface pigmenting of double-face jacquard fabric with center weft stitching are identified.Based on the research result,structural optimization method of double-face jacquard fabric under layered-combination mode is proposed.Basic design and extra design methods of double-face jacquard fabric with the three stitching ways are established,and application practices are taken for example to guide the innovative product practices of doubleface jacquard fabric under layered-combination mode.Finally,this paper has built the system of innovative double-face jacquard fabric varieties with self-stitching,center weft stitching and layer-exchanging according to the double-face jacquard fabric design principle and method under layered-combination mode.Two types that simulated and innovative effect double-face jacquard fabrics are included.In addition,research of technology and practices of innovative products design are carried out at the same time.Design examples are taken to indicate that the double-face jacquard structure design method under layered-combination mode possesses excellent application value on double-face jacquard fabric innovative design and product development.The design examples consist of double-face simulated effect jacquard fabric,double-face innovative effect jacquard fabric with hollow,concave-convex and layer-exchanging(striped,latticed,etc),and double-face weave structure with center weft stitching.