Analysis Of Textiles Exhibited At Late Qing Dynasty Exposition

The textiles exhibited at late Qing Dynasty Exposition is a reflection of moderncivilization. To some extent, it reflects the highest level of production technology inmodern China. Some information about economic, manufacturing, textile technologyand culture at that time can be obtained by analyzing textiles.The textiles exhibited at Exposition in1895s and1900s are studied in this paper,conclusion can be obtained from the following four aspects:(1) Background of textilesexhibited at late Qing EXPO: textiles in1895s should be derived from Berlin ArtsCouncil and produced by mainland China; textiles in1900s should be derived fromParis Exposition and the source is wide. many textiles were provided by multinationalcompanies;(2) Fabric patterns of textiles exhibited at late Qing EXPO: fabric patternsin1895s have a complete range of kinds, including plain, twill, satin, jacquard andyarn. Most of the exhibitors in1900s are plain cotton fabric, fabric warp and weftdensity varies200to500roots/10cm.(3)Yarn of textiles exhibited at late Qing EXPO:There is a wide variety of yarn, including hard twist yarn, coarse yarn, fine yarns,plied yarn and untwisted yarn, among them, most twisted yarn is cotton、linen anduntwisted yarn is silk; The yarn of domestic fabric has a maximum twist of910twist/m, minimum linear density of32.8tex,yarn evenness is fine.(4) Fiber of textilesexhibited at late Qing EXPO: fiber of textiles exhibited at late Qing EXPO has fourtypes: cotton, wool, silk,and linen. The fiber of domestic fabric has an average lengthof21-25mm，diameter of14-16μm, the breed of cotton should be Gossypiumhirsutum. X-ray diffraction and morphology analysis show that,29samples has beendisposed by mercerizing process, it indicated that mercerized cotton had been foundin China at the beginning of mercerized technology industrialization (1895), and fillthe blank that Chhina has no mercerized cotton record before1927. The ancient cotton fabrics are preserved well; There are three types of linen fiber, ramie, hempand an another kind of linen fiber different from common linen, The anc ient linenfabrics are preserved well; Silk fibers at the same period has different aging level,fibers dyed in red and blue are aging seriously, and when dye coating on the fibersurface, the fiber were preserved well, the aging of silk is related to dyestuff types andattachment methods. The mole percent of glycine, alanine and the value of small/large amino acid side is increased when compared to well preserved silk fibers. Theintensity of particular absorption peak on Amide Ⅱ、Ⅲ area and the percentage of �'-folded is increased in Amide Ⅲ region, the percentage of α-helix is drop, Whichindicated that aging silk fiber is still in its initial stage. There is only one hair felt inthe exhibition,its raw materials is wool and the fiber is aging slightly.Certain conclusions can be get by systems analysis on fabric to fiber whichexhibited at late Qing Dynasty Exposition in this paper. it can provide a theoreticalbasis for late Qing textiles production as well as the expansion of database and repairjob for textile relics. The research has certain practical value.