| The double face jacquard fabric with pattern effect can meet the requirement for the face andback sides of the fabric being independent of each other. The complete patterns and reasonablecolors can be presented in the face and back sides respectively. It has uniquely innovativepracticability and decorative property which traditional fabric can’t reach. In order to increasewarming function and improve the additional value of the double face jacquard, the paper chosebamboo charcoal-viscose blended yarn as a set of extra weft stitching the face and back layers toweave the double face thermal jacquard.In the paper, structure characteristics and design principles of the double face thermal jacquardfabric with pattern effect was deeply researched: double–layer weaves by overlaying the faceweaves with the back weaves was used and reasonable stitching methods were chose to connectthe two separate layers; for fear of influencing the fabric style and weaving smoothly, theinterwoven balance of the double face fabric was full considered; the three-elementary weavesand derivative weaves were used as the face and back layers’ basic weaves of the double facefabric which could realize the fabric interwoven balance, be beneficial for the fabric to close andsmooth and reduce the weaving difficulty.For studying the influence that each factor of the double face thermal jacquard scarf withpattern effect has on the fabric properties and providing certain theoretical reference for theproduct development of the double face thermal scarf, an orthogonal design plan on the fabricproperties was established. The orthogonal experiment had the following four factors: Letter Astood for weft arrangements which had three levels including4:1,12:2:1and12:1:2; Letter Brepresented the surface weft densities which set three levels including30picks/cm,26picks/cmand22picks/cm; Letter C stood for periods of the extra weft interlacing which had three levelsincluding16,24and32. Letter D meant the surface weaves of the face and back layers. For thisparameter, three levels such as plain weave, twill weave and satin weave were chosen. Inaddition, bamboo charcoal-viscose blended yarn, ordinary viscose and silk were chosen as warpand weft to weave the fabric samples. The sample properties were tested such as the far infraredemission ratio, fabric style testing and wrinkle recovery and then the influence factors wereanalyzed. Such conclusions could be made: the largest impact on the far infrared emission ratioof the fabric was Letter A and the least impact factors were Letter C and Letter D. Letter B fell inbetween Letter A and Letter C. Letter B was associated with the sample bending rigidity most. Letter A, Letter C and Letter D little impacted on the sample bending rigidity. The biggestinfluence for the compressive resilience of the fabric was Letter D and the smallest influence wasLetter C. Letter B and Letter A fell in between Letter D and Letter C. Letter B was the biggestinfluence factor on the surface roughness of the fabric and Letter A was the smallest influencefactor. Letter C and Letter D fell in between Letter A and Letter B. The largest impact on thewrinkle recovery of the fabric was Letter C and the least impact was Letter A. Letter B andLetter D fell in between Letter A and Letter C. At last, by the method of comprehensiveassessment in Fuzzy Mathematics, the comprehensive properties of the fabric were evaluated inthis paper. The result showed that the fabric with the first level in each factor had bettercomprehensive property.On the comprehensive analysis of the optimal combination of various factors and levels andthe fabric properties, the double face thermal jacquard scarf with pattern effect was designed andwove in the paper. Weft-backed weaves were adopted as the face and back layers’ weaves. Theweft arrangement was1:1:1:1:1in order of the face weft Weft A, the face weft Weft B, the extraweft Weft C, the back weft Weft D, the back weft Weft E. The surface weft density was30picks/cm, and the period of the extra weft interlacing was16. The pattern on the face layer wasdesigned by color block and broken processing. On the other hand, geometric figure was choseas design element in the back layer. Both the two layers gave priority to earth color amidinterspersing golden yellow. The face and back layer of the double face thermal jacquard scarfwith pattern effect had clear and beautiful patterns and unique style. In addition, the double facescarf had extra warming function and ensured high wearing comfort. |
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