Research On The Traditional Button Culture From The Ming And Qing Dynasties Under The Perspective Of National Cultural Integration

Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties,the traditional buttons for clothing have achieved unprecedented development in modeling style,structural characteristics,and scope of clothing,and have gathered the aesthetics of different nationalities from home and abroad,with a distinctive multicultural integration attribute.Their rising status in clothing has gradually replaced the rope belt as the dominant way of tying clothes in traditional clothing.The change of the way of tying clothes has an important influence and restriction on the placket shape and silhouette style of traditional clothes.This paper takes Chinese traditional buttons as the research object,combines ancient books,images and real objects,and adopts the triple evidence method to sort out the development and evolution of ancient Chinese clothing methods and the origin of traditional buttons,and focuses on the Ming and Qing dynasties to the Republic of China stage,Further explore the influence of the change of the way of tying clothes on the shape of the placket and the style of clothing.From the perspective of fashion,the wearing of buttons greatly enriched the placket style of clothes from the Ming and Qing dynasties.After the Ming and Qing Dynasties,stand collar,double placket,one line placket,pipa placket,herringbone placket and various forms of single placket,hidden placket and double placket in the Republic of China emerged one after another.These forms of placket mostly relied on buttons to fix;In contrast,the traditional collar style with belt tie is gradually reduced.From the perspective of dress style,the popularity of buttons in the middle and late Ming Dynasty promoted the development of standing collar and facing style,and also promoted the development of women’s chest and neck from "exposed" to "covered";The overall popularity of buttons in the Qing Dynasty had an impact on the style of clothing.In terms of modeling structure,there were a large number of splicing structures in the clothing of the Qing Dynasty,such as walking gowns,one breasted vests,etc.Therefore,the clothing also had a distinctive style of "one dress for many".In addition,in terms of the overall style of clothing,the change in the way of tying clothing promoted the overall development of clothing in the Qing Dynasty from "waist tied" to "barrel shaped";In the Republic of China period,under the influence of modern dress aesthetic fashion,the layout of traditional buttons on the front of the clothes changed from scattered to dense.The increase in the number of buttons directly affected the tightness of the clothes,and the clothes also developed from broad and invisible to fit.From the perspective of dress culture connotation,buttons in the Ming Dynasty not only have the "tightness" covered by the collar under the natural physical attribute,but also have the attributes of showing off and attracting at the decorative level.Under the historical context of the strict concept of chastity in the Ming Dynasty and the revival of the humanistic trend in the late Ming Dynasty,the button has the dual contradictory attribute of "sexual attraction" under the awareness of human nature while covering the female body.In the Qing Dynasty,when practical aesthetics was advocated,buttons were more aesthetic based on practicality.During the period of the Republic of China,while promoting the development of the modern narrow clothing culture,the traditional button tying method did not pursue the ultimate tightness.The clothing was "close to the body,not close to the flesh".The clothing tended to show the natural beauty of the body,and its core core was still the embodiment of the traditional Chinese implicit and graceful aesthetic concept.To sum up,the transformation from lace up to buckle down in the Ming and Qing Dynasties had an important impact on the shape and overall style of the dress front.It was also in the collision and exchange of different cultures that buttons were passively introduced from foreign cultures and then actively absorbed and internalized,becoming an indispensable part of traditional clothing in the Ming and Qing Dynasties.