A Study On The Style And Vicissitude Of Shui Ethnic Minority Women’s Costumes In Guizhou

Shui ethic minority(Shui)is one of the indigenous ethnic groups in Guizhou.It mainly lives on the border between Guizhou and Guangxi.Due to remote seclusion and stable folk custom development,Shui ethnic minority culture has been well continued from ancient times to now.Clothing,as the crystallization of material civilization,is subject to the environment and technology at that time.It presents the diligence and wisdom of the Shui people in the style,color and material of clothing,and reflects the life customs,aesthetic taste and ethnic beliefs of the Shui people in Guizhou in different periods.The exquisite horsetail embroidery technique of Shui ethnic minority has attracted the attention of scholars at home and abroad.Accordingly,the recognition of horsetail embroidery as a dress is also very high and has the most extensive influence in Shui ethnic minority.Therefore,at present,horsetail embroidery is mostly used as the starting point in the research of Shui ethnic minority clothing.However,according to the investigation,the traditional dress of Shui ethic minority is actually double breasted,and horsetail embroidery has been used in clothing for nearly20 years,Many young people of Shui ethnic minority only know that horsetail embroidered clothes are costumes,but they don’t know that Shui ethic minority once had double breasted clothing.At present,only the elderly of Shui ethnic minority have kept double breasted clothing in some areas,and most of the Shui ethnic minority clothes on the market are side opening clothing.It can be seen that it is urgent to sort out the styles of Shui ethnic minority clothes at present.Most of the classification methods of Shui ethnic minority costumes are classified by region,which was put forward at the end of last century.With the rapid development of modern society,the Shui ethnic minority costumes themselves have also changed.To classify an ethnic group’s costumes,we need to distinguish them not only from region,but also from the costumes themselves and their evolution.At present,there are few systematic combing of the changes of Shui ethnic minority costumes,Therefore,this paper will sort out the clothing styles of Guizhou Shui women,classify them according to their clothing characteristics,and then conduct a more comprehensive analysis and research on the development and evolution of Shui women’s clothing and its causes,so as to provide theoretical data and practical reference for the research of Guizhou Shui women’s clothing,let the new generation of Shui people have a more comprehensive understanding of their own ethnic clothing,and lay a foundation for the inheritance and creative transformation of traditional culture.Referring to the distribution of Shui ethnic minoritys presented in the sixth census,I had come to Guizhou for field investigation four times.Consult the local ethnic religion bureau to know the villages with better preservation of Shui ethnic minority clothing culture,and go deep into them to collect clothing samples;attend the wedding of Shui ethnic minority people and record their customs and clothing;observe the Shui ceremony;visit ethnic minority cultural centers and private collections in many places.After sorting and summarizing the jackets,trousers and skirts of the collected samples according to time and region,it is found that the following phenomena exist in Shui ethnic minority clothing:(1)men’s clothing is basically assimilated by the Han;(2)The costumes in some areas are the same or similar to those of other ethnic minorities around;(3)The popularity of horsetail embroidery costumes;(4)The styles of costumes in the same region are not uniform.Some wear side opening clothing and some wear double breasted clothing;in a small part of the region,people only wear matching clothes.According to the style characteristics of clothing,according to the top placket,the Shui ethnic minority clothing is divided into three categories: double breasted clothing,front closing of cross clothing and side opening clothing,and then the bottoms are divided into eight styles,namely,the style of left front closing of cross with bucket skirt、the style of right front closing of cross with bucket skirt、the style of double breasted and cardigan sleeve with pants、the style of double breasted and cardigan sleeve with pleated skirt、the style of side opening with pants、the style of side opening with pleated skirt、the style of side opening with bucket skirt.;It is found that these three kinds of Shui ethnic minority costumes show regional characteristics,such as the distribution of double breasted clothing is concentrated,the distribution of double breasted clothing is scattered,and the distribution of side opening clothing is the most extensive.Secondly,by consulting ancient books,picture books,stone carvings and other records related to Shui ethnic minority clothing,combing according to the Tang and Song Dynasties,the Ming and Qing Dynasties and the Republic of China,it is concluded that the main forms of Shui ethic minority clothing changes are:(1)the change from front closing of cross clothing to double breasted clothing and side opening clothing;(2)change from skirt to trousers;(3)trimmings from complex to simple and then to complex;(4)The clothing structure is more fit;(5)Clothing materials and colors tend to be diverse.Finally,through the field investigation and literature verification of Shui ethnic minority history and geographical environment,it is concluded that the objective reasons affecting the change of Shui ethnic minority clothing are mainly economic and technological development,political change and social transformation,living environment and cultural acculturation;The subjective reasons are mainly the changes of Shui women’s aesthetic thought,cultural concept and traditional clothing making skills.Finally,through the comprehensive analysis of the living environment,lifestyle,costume characteristics and historical and cultural materials of the aquarium,it is concluded that the objective reasons affecting the changes of aquarium costumes are mainly the development of economy and technology,political change and social transformation,living environment and cultural connotation;the subjective reasons are mainly the changes in the aesthetic thoughts,cultural concepts and traditional costume making techniques of aquarium women.