| The Hanfu culture in modern society is a kind of urban subculture constructed in the practice of Hanfu revival movement in the early 21 st century.As related subculture groups,Hanfu lovers who participate in the practice have formed a unique style of life.On the basis of inheriting the spirit of traditional culture,modernization has been adopted,and a unique urban youth subculture style has been developed.This paper sorts out the research history of subculture at home and abroad firstly in order to establish a theoretical framework.Related concepts of Hanfu are then clarified.The terms of Hanfu in historical context are distinguished from the ones in modern context.The scope of this study is determined as focusing on modern Hanfu subculture and related groups,taking Wuhan area as the field point,being deeply involved in the interactive virtual network communities and real places of the group members,and conducting the online and offline field investigation to describe the general situation of the population.The author personally participated in several Hanfu cultural events held in Wuhan during the study period,and explored the function of the realistic domain,namely,the city,with the relevant theories of urban anthropology.The author believes that commercial street,exhibition venues and parks play the integration function of urban subculture.After that,this paper makes an overall analysis of the practice process of Hanfu sports,and divides the subculture process of Hanfu into three stages of germination,development and integration to describe the phenomenon.In the early germination stage,this paper discusses the rise and formation of Hanfu subculture and the Tongpao group in Hanfu movement,which is considered to be the identity of youth groups in the new era to traditional culture.In the medium-term development stage,Hanfu subculture completed the style construction of clothing and group.Using the style research theory of’bricolage’of Birmingham School,this paper interprets the symbol construction of Hanfu subculture in three aspects of decorative patterns,patterns and style of Hanfu clothing,as well as the wearing behavior construction of the Tongpao group which is divided into ritual clothing group and regular clothing group,and discusses the sacred and secular characteristics,which comprehensively shows the overall style of this clothing and group.In the later stage of integration,the fate of the collection of Hanfu culture is discussed in the context of socialist environment with Chinese characteristics and political orientation,and the integration of capital,official and inter-group collection is interpreted.It is considered that different from the fierce collection of Western traditional subculture,the collection of Hanfu subculture presents a fusion coexistence under multi-party interaction.Finally,this paper interprets the sub-cultural phenomenon of Hanfu from the perspective of anthropology.As a sort of clothing,Hanfu is a cultural symbol and has corresponding functions.The paper considers that Tongpao group gathers together based on interest,and has a high degree of cultural identity and emotional identity.In the interaction,it presents the characteristics of virtuality and authenticity,fragmentation and mobility,and identity equality.Through the maintenance of the sacredness of the design,Hanfu subculture groups are separated from the identity of the public group.With the banner of the revival of traditional culture,Hanfu culture has been legitimate,and it has been linked with the mainstream in seeking national identity,cultural identity and emotional identity,so as to achieve coexistence with the mainstream culture in seeking common ground while reserving differences.Modern Hanfu culture is a subcultural phenomenon based on modern internet and urban development in the wave of globalization.The sub-cultural groups of Hanfu formed due to the aggregation of interest,and showed a strong sense of responsibility and mission.Tongpao formed its own unique clothing and group style in the process of Hanfu revival movement.This subculture style changes with the times,but it is not divorced from the core purpose of maintaining national spirit.In the international environment of the contemporary ’ Community of Chinese Nation ’,the subculture groups,together with capital,government and the public,have constructed a localized collection path to revive traditional culture and realize the revive of traditional culture. |