| As a nomadic people living on the vast grasslands in northern China,the costumes of different tribes can reflect the characteristics of production and life style,cultural customs,aesthetic concepts and other aspects of the region.The study of manchu and Mongolian traditional costume culture is of great significance to understand its political system,traditional customs,aesthetic characteristics,production technology and inheritance value,and represents the brand and cultural mark of a certain historical period.The alliance banner system was a specific organizational form for the Qing Government to rule over most Mongolian regions.It was an effective ruling strategy implemented by the rulers of Mongolia in the early Qing Dynasty.Therefore,it is an important basis to study the development and change of Mongolian and an important content of inheriting traditional culture to discuss the influence of Mongolian costume on the Alliance banner system in qing Dynasty.Based on historical facts and from the perspective of the Alliance banner system implemented by the Qing Dynasty,this paper analyzed,sorted out,summarized and summarized the current costume shape characteristics and styles of 28 Mongolian tribes through field research.Using the method of historical documents,this paper makes an in-depth study on the historical origin of the Alliance banner system in qing Dynasty,and explores the changing factors of Mongolian tribal costumes caused by the implementation of the alliance banner system from the pre-Qing dynasty to the late Qing Dynasty.Using the method of double evidence,this paper studies the status quo of Mongolian typical tribal clothing,analyzes its historical origin,geographical environment,lifestyle and clothing style,and summarizes the origin of clothing style in physical objects and historical materials.From the qing Dynasty alliance banner system to study the cultural integration of Manchu and Mongolian,through the manchu and Mongolian women’s clothing modeling,pattern,color and technology comparative analysis,summed up the manchu clothing culture and Mongolian clothing culture of the relationship and similarities and differences;It extracted innovative design elements from Manchu and Mongolian women’s clothing influenced by the Alliance banner system in the Qing Dynasty,innovatively designed clothing with Manchu and Mongolian cultural characteristics combined with modern aesthetics,and provided new design ideas and methods for the innovative design of ethnic clothing.The research conclusions are as follows:(1)Before the Qing Dynasty,Mongolian tribal clothing was in the shape of turning over the right front collar,with tight cuffs,loose sleeves and short length.Modern Mongolian tribal dress forms a great difference with it,for the right front,standing collar,large front,long to the ankle loose robe,while the horqin area dress bright colors,focusing on the embroidery patterns on the clothes;The hulun Buir region borders on foreign countries,and the clothes are mostly divided structure;Alxa region is close to Islam and its clothing style exudes religious atmosphere,which makes the Mongolian people form28 tribal clothing characteristics with different styles.The differences in Mongolian clothing are formed under the implementation of the Alliance banner system in the Qing Dynasty.(2)Under the implementation of the Alliance banner system in the Qing Dynasty,the typical tribal clothing for field research was moved to the pastoral land.From the right front,front and horseshoe sleeve of the early Mongolian clothing,the style was simple and generous without fancy decoration technology.To the modern typical tribal dress,right front,front,exquisite style,decoration technology more.In the alliance banner system and marriage system carried out in the Qing Dynasty,Horqin tribe had the closest relationship with Manchu,and the clothing styles in Horqin region were the most similar to manchu clothing styles in the Qing Dynasty.(3)Before the Qing Dynasty,the rise of The Nuzhen ethnic group began to influence the Mongolian costume.The style changed from cross collar to standing collar,and horse-shoe sleeve was added to narrow sleeve.In the early Qing Dynasty,the alliance flag system was established,and the typical Mongolian clothing styles were right front,small standing collar,factory word front,horseshoe sleeve,slit and loose at the bottom;In the middle of the Qing Dynasty,the banner system prevailed,and there was close contact between Manchu and Mongolia.Mongolian dress styles were right front,round collar,horseshoes sleeves and loose hem.In the late Qing Dynasty,the alliance banner system was relatively perfect,and Mongolian clothing styles were right front,high collar,big front,longer and loose hem.(4)Through the continuous cultural integration between Manchu and Mongolia,the evolution of Mongolian costumes from the early Qing Dynasty to the late Qing Dynasty was comparatively analyzed.Robes changed from short to long,from narrow to wide,sleeves from narrow to wide,collars from standing collar to round collar to standing collar,and embroidery decoration became more and more exquisite.(5)This topic with written form system of Mongolian unique costume culture and the origin and development of manchu dress culture for inspiration,to extract the collar of dress,full of qing dynasty You Ren,brocaded with,under the double sleeve,sleeve,armbands and spread out the fringing elements,such as the full use of color is white custom,grain appearance with full of blend as a butterfly design,Fabrics with bark fold on the texture of cotton embody full respect of nature,and pearls and to try to adorn adornment material,such as three-dimensional flower design with traditional style and conforms to the modern aesthetic with four ideas,reflected in the qing dynasty under the written system full dress culture constantly fusion and development of the culture style,make traditional style glow the new vitality,It provides design ideas and reference for inheriting,protecting and developing manchu and Mongolian costume culture. |
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