The Dissolution And Reconstruction Of The Obligatory Passage Point Status Of Fasion Magazines ——Take Elle As An Example

Since the 21 st century,with the gradual popularization of the Internet and the rapid development of media technology,new media with the characteristics of fast dissemination and free access have brought a great impact on the traditional media.Facing the loss of readers and declining advertising revenue,the status of fashion magazines as "fashion bibles" in the age of traditional media has gradually disappeared.However,at a time when the public's pursuit of material and beauty is becoming more and more intense,fashion magazines still have value and development prospects.Therefore,in the new media environment,how should my country's fashion magazines rebuild the dominant position of fashion communication is a question worth exploring.Based on actor network theory,this paper comprehensively uses case analysis method,participatory observation method and in-depth interview method to explore the development strategy of fashion magazines in my country under the new media environment by sorting out the interactive relationship between the participating subjects of fashion communication.In the era of traditional media,fashion magazines have built a fashion communication network by translating the interests of fashion brands,fashion models(stars),advertisements and audiences,and have obtained the status of "mandatory passing points" of the network.However,in the age of new media,platform media,fashion KOL and new technologies are involved in fashion communication.In the power struggle between old and new actors,fashion magazines have lost their dominant position and urgently need to save themselves.Through the case analysis of the development status of the well-known fashion magazine "ELLE World Fashion Garden",it is found that the magazine has successful experience in four aspects: building an omni-media matrix,creating a fan community,segmenting the market and integrating e-commerce.There are shortcomings such as strong commercial atmosphere and weak platform influence.Combining theory and case analysis,this paper proposes that under the new media environment,the strategy for Chinese fashion magazines to reconstruct the "0bligatory Passage Point" status is to connect actors.Fashion magazines can take advantage of their own audience resources,authority,and network resources to actively connect with new and heterogeneous fashion KOL,platform-based media,and new technologies through seven strategies: building user databases,maintaining high-end magazines,and building independent platforms.Actors,and recruit some fashion brands,advertisements,models and audiences to give them roles,so as to gradually reconstruct the fashion communication network dominated by fashion magazines.It is hoped that the research can provide some reference for the development of fashion magazines in my country.