The Research On The Stature Of Clothing Of Shanghai ShuYuChangSan In The Late Qing Dynasty

The purpose of this thesis is to describe and analyze the characteristic of Shanghai ShuYuChangSan clothing in the period of 1860-1911 through studying of photo images and literatures. The thesis applied the studies on concepts, principles and methods of artistic design, history, clothing and statistics, using literatures as the main source, confirmed by real objects and interviews with experts, discussed the formal and informal clothing of ShuYuChangSan in the late Qing period. There're some studies aimed at ShuYuChangSan in this period, but this study on certain particular occasions complemented the lack of historical research in this perspective.This study is mainly from literatures, the most important narratives are illustrations on clothing from "XieXia" style novels. The photo images and literatures are also coming from "The sea of shadow-Shanghai 100 beauty photography", "Shanghai Love", "Hai Shang Qing Lou Gallery", and "Photo Times", etc. The analysis on real objects which used as supportive data is from "Textile and Apparel Museum of Dong Hua University", "Museum of Metersbonwe" and private collections on women's clothing of late Qing. With literatures, photos and real objects, through analyzing the styles of clothing, compatibility, color, occasions, concluded the basic characteristics of clothing for ShuYuChangSan of late Qing. The clothing of lower class courtesans and their servant girl are not part of this research.The results from the research are as follows:1. The compatibility matching of clothing of ShuYuChangSan in the late Qing Dynasty were mostly shirts with skirts, and shirts with pants, ladies wearing men's clothing and clothing from western style also had emerged, but not for basic everyday wearing. At the end of Qing Dynasty, the style for both ShuYuChangSan and normal citizens generally were shirts with pants, as the time passed, the overall trend was shifted from big and wide to more reflecting the curve figure of the lady.2. From the result of clothing color analysis on ShuYuChangSan of late Qing, clothing for indoor were mainly in harmonic colors that blends well, for outdoor going, were mostly colors in contrast in order to differentiate from others. Therefore one can see that although late Qing paid much attention on the color of clothing, and that the color was more vivid, but the compatibility matching still emphasized more on coordination and harmonization.3. The matching of jewelries was combination of traditional and Western style, and it paid more attention on the materials and pattern, mainly gold, silver, jade and diamond, etc. the patterns were mostly in complex details and majestic.4. Make ups were mainly in the form of flirtatious and light make ups. In the 1890s, was a trend impacted by the Shanghai courtesan Lin Dai Yu. whom wore dark eyebrows to show a special kind of beauty from rugged, heavy makeup, but this trend was short-termed and later converted back to flirtatious state.5. One can see from the etiquette rules between guests and ShuYuChangSan, even though the association between ShuYuChangSan of late Qing and upper class people had developed towards "sexual passion", but their elegant and charming appearances, clever answers to the questions, had allowed guests to find partners or friends among ShuYuChangSan, in which "sexual passion" were buried underneath the circumstances. The stature of clothing on ShuYuChangSan was composed of luxury and charming rather than frivolous and nudity, this was indispensable part of men's lives longing for female's beauty that consist both the appearances and talents.