| With Chinese style sweeping all over the world, Cheongsam, which up surged in 90's, must be popular again today. Although female was fond of Cheongsam, they were always apart from it. The reason was obviously. On one hand, it requested nice body shape of ladies. On the other hand, it was difficult for movement, especially for every day wear. Therefore, how to improve cheongsam to make it more comfortable meanwhile remained its charming? It was very critical for Chinese traditional costume's recovery.This issue belongs to the field of fitted one-piece dress, major research garment reasonable ease and pattern improvement. The study routine was that gains female body rule firstly, and then achieves optimum ease value with moveable body test. Finally, designs the causal cheongsam pattern by combined both of above.Because of rare literature before, In this paper, a market research would be made for customer's appeal, and then carried out sequential study according to the result surveyed. The respondents were white-collar female who lived in Shanghai, and 175 in all. The reason showed that none of them was satisfied with their body; 81.1% of respondents would like to wear Cheongsam, but 81.3% still worried about their body shape and bad comfort on movement. So above all proved it was extremely urgent for reformative Cheongsam.In order to understand the specific characteristics of young women and the parameters set of experimental paper pattern, in this paper 182 18 to 25-year-old subjects that were upper body nude was measured by tools such as Martin to get the static size of the female's body. The experiment gained 59 body parameters and 11 characteristics parameters selected by SPSS software, which were height, chest,front width, back width, shoulder width, difference in waist and hip,difference in chest and waist, cup, bally, chest height/ status and hip height/ status. The research divided 182 subjects into 6 departments by cluster analysis.In moveable experiment,30 standard females was marked lines on their bodies and was requested to finish 11 specified poses meanwhile measured their girth and detail measurements. The result showed as below:the most tensile rate of skin on chest was 8.4%, and 39.3% of it was caused by breath; the biggest stretched rate of skin on waist was 10.12%, and the largest stretched rate of skin on abdomen was 6.1%; the most tensile rate of skin on hip and back was separately 5.6% and 9.34%. All of the value was crucial dependence for reasonable ease designed.Finally, the issue combined both movable test and static test and use NAC2000 CAD software to build a pattern data document for above 6 body characteristics. Besides, the samples which was made according to patterns, was evaluated on fitting, appearance and comfort. In this study, 8 experts were invited to value the samples with subjective estimate system. The scores were separately 4.42,4.63,4.33,4.52. After that,4 live models who wore 4 pieces of samples were asked to evaluate moveable comfort. The grades were 4.00,4.25,4.63,4.50,4.50,4.25, 4.63,4.50. According to above scores, a conclusion was achieved that not only moveable but also static sample value got a good results. That means both ease and pattern of causal Cheongsam designed in the paper was reasonable.Above all research provides scientific and available theoretical proof and implement for designing ease and pattern of causal Cheongsam. |
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