| In this thesis, the influences of the yarn surface fibers, wool treatment and cover factor of knitted fabric on the prickle of wool knitted sweaters' collars were studied. The aim is to give some valuable advices on the reasonable selection of wool for the collars of men's wool sweaters.Firstly, 10 kinds of wool knitted yarns, which had similar yarn thickness and were made of different wool qualities, were chosen to do this study. The diameters of the yarn surface fibers were measured and the number and types of the yarn surface fibers were counted and recorded by using a microscope with 400～500 magnification. Five cops were well prepared for each kind of yarn. And from each cop, 10 snippets of 2cm yarn were measured. Thus, the total length measured for each kind of yarn was 100cm. Based on the analysis of the measurement results of the yarn surface fibers, 3 types of indexes (the mean diameter of surface fibers, the number of "coarse surface fibers" per meter along yarn and the percentage of "coarse surface fibers" in all the fibers) were put forward. These 3 types of indexes were used to describe the surface fibers, the surface end fibers, the surface loop fibers and the end diameter of the surface end fibers. Secondly, based on the primary trials, 10 young men aged from 24 to 27, who were suitable for the prickle test, were chosen to do the collar wear trials. The 10 kinds of yarns were knitted into 1 + 1 rib fabrics with similar tightness, respectively. And then the knitted fabrics were made up to the same size collars, respectively. Under the temperature 22°C±2°C and 55%±5% RH conditions, the collar wear trials were carried out when the men were at rest and after running, respectively. By means of paired sample T test, the results of the collar wear trials were analyzed. It was found that the prickle of the wool knitted fabrics increased after running. It was also found that the prickle of the wool knitted fabric increased by the shrink-proof treatment for 66s wool when the judges made their evaluation after running. It was also found that there was no effect on the prickle of the wool knitted fabric by the shrink-proof resin treatment for 66s wool when the judges were at rest. The shrink-proof chloride treatment made no difference on the prickle of the wool knitted fabric for 66s wool. The shrink-proof chloride treatment and resin treatment made no difference on the prickle of the wool knitted fabric for 70s wool.Thirdly, partial correlation analysis was carried out to find the correlation between 3 indexes (the mean surface fiber diameter, the amount of coarse surface fibers per unit yarn length, the percentage of coarse surface fibers among all the surface fibers) and the prickle values of the knitted fabrics given by the judges at rest. It was found that, the partial correlation coefficient was maximum between the percentage of surface end fibers when the end diameter is coarser than 26μm among all the surface fibers and the prickle values of the knitted fabrics given by the judges at rest. It showed that the end diameters of the surface end fibers affected prickle more than other fiber diameter indexes. 26μm was found to be a critical point for the prickle of wool knitted fabrics. The surface end fiber was defined as coarse surface end fiber when the end diameter was coarser than 26μm.Fourthly, by carrying out principal component analysis, two components were obtained for the prickle values of the knitted fabrics given by the judges at rest. The first component was named as coarse surface end fiber component. The second component was named as fabric tightness component. Three components were obtained for the prickle values of the knitted fabrics given by the judges after running. The first component was named as coarse surface end fiber component. The second component was named as wool treatment component. The third component was named as fabric tightness component. The influence of coarse surface end fiber on the prickle of wool knitted fabrics was much stronger than those of fabric tightness and wool treatment. It was the most important factor that influence the prickle of wool knitted fabrics. When the judge were at rest and after running, the percentage of coarse surface end fiber among all surface end fibers had a very strong correlation with the prickle of wool knitted fabrics and it could be used as the most important index to evaluate the prickle of wool knitted fabrics.Finally, the cluster analysis was carried out to find the difference among the prickle of the ten knitted wool fabrics. When the judges were at rest, the ten fabrics could be clustered into 3 groups: group 1 included fabrics 1#, 2#, 3#, 4#, 6#, 7#, 8# and 10#, their prickle goes between a little prickle and prickle; group 2 only included fabric 5#, its prickle goes between prickle and much prickle; group 3 only included fabric 9#, its prickle goes between much prickle and unbearable prickle. The ranges of the percentage of coarse surface end fibers among all the surface end fibers corresponding to the three groups are respectively (9.2%,28.0%), 37.3% and 60.0%.When the judges made their evaluation after running, the ten fabrics could be clustered into 3 groups: group 1 included fabrics 1#, 2#, 3#, 7#, 8# and 10#, their prickle goes between a little prickle and prickle; group 2 only included fabric 4# and 6#, its prickle goes between prickle and much prickle; group 3 only included fabric 5# and 9#, its prickle goes between much prickle and unbearable prickle. The ranges of the percentage of coarse surface end fibers among all the surface end fibers corresponding to the three groups are respectively (9.2%, 16.4%), (21.5%,28.0%) and (37.3%,60.0%). |
PDF Full Text Request