| The purpose of this study was to use 3D body scan data to investigate the body shapes of overweight and obese women in relation to their fit problems and preferences, body cathexis and benefits sought from clothing, and satisfaction with ready-to-wear. Two samples (Studies 1 and 2) totaled 448 (1:108 and 2:340) overweight (30 > BMI ≥ 25) and 252 (1:82 and 2:170) obese (BMI ≥ 30) women aged 19 to 65.;Through a questionnaire, women in Study 1 provided data on fit problems (Goldsberry, Shim & Reich, 1996), body cathexis (Hwang, 1996), clothing benefits sought (Shim & Bickle, 1994), and fit preferences and satisfaction within six garment categories (Pisut, 2001). The Body Shape Assessment Scale (BSAS(c)) (Connell, Ulrich, Brannon & Presley, 2002) was used to classify the 700 scans into whole and component shape categories. Frequencies and percentages, correlations, cross-tabulations, and ANOVA yielded quantitative results that were assessed qualitatively to identify implications for slopers for overweight and obese women according to whole body shape.;Subjects were dissatisfied with ready-to-wear, frequently needing alterations on purchases; obese women had more fit problems. For all subjects, pear body shape was the most common; except for overweight women in Study 1, rectangular was the second most common shape. There were very few hourglass shapes among the obese women. Petite was the most common height category. Mean bust, waist and hip measurements were 4--7&inches; larger for the obese samples. These circumference means did not match well with sizes in the ASTM D 5586--95 standard or published vendor averages.;Body cathexis and clothing benefits results indicated that the more overweight and obese respondents were satisfied with their bodies, the more likely they were to choose designs that fit closely and emphasized their bodies. For overweight women, there was a negative relationship between cathexis scores and the desire to camouflage figure flaws. Obese women with higher cathexis scores were more likely to seek innovative fashions and be satisfied with ready-to-wear.;Obese women's preference for loosely fitted clothing was related to whether they were pear or rectangular; they also differed in their blouse fit preferences. Overweight women appeared to be more satisfied with the fit of the jackets, blouses, skirts and dresses exemplifying their chosen fit preference whereas obese women appeared to be more satisfied with jeans and pants. Relationships were found between fit problems in specified body areas and body and shape, hip shape and buttocks prominence, back curvature, and bust prominence. Bust-waist, bust-hips and waist-hips measurement differences were significantly related to body shapes. Analysis of the most common shape characteristics suggested different adjustments to standard hourglass slopers for pear and rectangular shapes including adjustments to waistlines and fitting mechanisms for the D torso, differing changes in hip curves, allowances for forward posture, and larger bust darts for obese bust prominence. |
