Skills And Memory:Oral History Research On Xiaoshan Lace And Its Inheritors

Xiaoshan lace is a yarn embroidery process formed by integrating European lace on the basis of traditional embroidery in China,Xiaoshan lace is a typical representative of the development and change of traditional handicrafts under the background of modern industrialization.In 2021,Xiaoshan lace-making skills were included in the fifth batch of national representative items of intangible cultural heritage.The production,development and decline of Xiaoshan lace are the presentation of the comprehensive role of culture,geography,history,politics and economy in Xiaoshan area.In the seventies and eighties of the 20 th century,more than 200,000 Xiaoshan folk women regarded lace as one of the important family side businesses.The main body of Xiaoshan lace inheritance is people,which is not only a skill,but also a production method and lifestyle,but also a mature value system and social structure.Tangible skills carry intangible culture,Xiaoshan lace is mainly exported for export,not only the cultural exchange attribute of the integration of East and West,but also the consumer-oriented market attribute,reflecting the changes of national policies and people’s lives in different historical periods,and has strong research value.Through fieldwork and oral history research,this paper analyzes the motivation and path of the introduction of European lace into China,and sorts out the historical evolution and technical characteristics of Xiaoshan lace.Through the different roles of designers,flower pickers,sellers and other lace production,the main production and operation methods of Xiaoshan lace are discussed;From the perspectives of economic impact,folk connotation and spiritual value,the relationship between lace and the lifestyle of Xiaoshan people was discussed.This paper analyzes Xiaoshan lace in the context of different cultural ecological environments,discusses the positioning of Xiaoshan lace in each era,considers the reasons for the transformation of Xiaoshan lace from "skill" to "memory",and the possibility and path of inheritance and development of Xiaoshan lace in the new cultural ecological environment.