Study On The Shape And Reproduction Of Costumes In The Southern Song Dynasty

It has always been an important topic to study the shape of ancient costumes.In the last more than ten years,abundant data from archaeological excavations have provided us with precious clues,making up for the lack of research on structure,arrangement and sewing technology in the history of costumes,which greatly promoted the study and reproduction of the shape of ancient costumes.Among them,the tomb of Zhao Boyun of the Southern Song Dynasty excavated in Huangyan,Zhejiang Province in 2016,was the only Southern Song coffin in Zhejiang that had not been robbed and well preserved.The silk costumes unearthed from the tomb were important physical evidence for studying the shape of the costumes worn by literates and officials of the Southern Song Dynasty.The political system of the Song Dynasty was based on "emphasizing literature over martial arts",which made the literati atmosphere strong.With the further development of Neo-Confucianism thought in the Southern Song Dynasty,the costumes of literati and scholar-officials paid more attention to elegance and simplicity.At the same time,due to the prevalence of Buddhism and Taoism,some religious costumes structures were accepted and adopted by the scholar-officials.In addition,the confrontation between the north and the south had been throughout the history of the Song Dynasty.In this historical background of frequent wars,social turmoil and north-south integration,with the development of feudal politics and economy,various ethnic cultures influenced and blended with each other,and the costumes of the Song dynasty were colorful and varied.This study started from the costume worn by Zhao Boyun from Huangyan,extracted the shape and pattern of eight sets of clothes on the corpse,and discussed the dressing style and aesthetic concept of Zhao Boyun.By combining the methods of literature,physical observation and image inductive analysis,the thesis made an analogy between the shape of literati officials and noble men’s costumes of the same period,analyzed their different structural forms in a particular period,and explored the clothing connotation and value embodiment behind them.A further investigation was made to the typical clothes made by Zhao Boyun from the perspective of garment cutting and sewing.The original form was reproduced by using the original structure,layout analysis and cutting methods as much as possible,and the shape of the traditional clothing was reproduced by sewing and processing practices,so as to reveal the simple costume characteristics of the Song Dynasty to the public and enhance the national cultural confidence of the public in clothing.It was found through the study that the patterns on Zhao Boyun’s costumes were rich in motifs,mostly floral combinations that implied the character of literati.His robes and trousers were loose,with slits on both sides of his robes and hemmed cuffs and collars,and trousers were mostly open crotches.The shape of the costumes were simple,and the pattern was elegant,which was consistent with the elegant costume aesthetic of literati and scholars in the Southern Song Dynasty,and showed the indifferent life of the literati.At the same time,the clothing was influenced by nomadic peoples such as Khitan and Nurchen,and the structural characteristics of Hu clothing appeared.The cutting method of Zhao Boyun’s clothes was set according to the limited fabric width.The sewing of the clothing was based on cruciate shape and flat structure,mainly with flat stitches supplemented by rolled seams,fell stitch,french seam,etc.,for stitching.In the process of making clothes according to the original technology to the greatest extent,It was found that the clothing making made full use of fabrics,reflecting the ancient people’s concept of respecting and conserving things,and the patchwork and technology on the clothing fully reflected the wisdom of the ancient people in making clothes.The research and reproduction of the shape of Zhao Boyun’s costume excavated from Huangyan,is not only the inheritance of the precious wealth left by Zhao Boyun,but also to promote the development of China’s excellent traditional costume culture.