Research And Application Of The X-shaped Women’s Skirt Pattern-making Method In Europe At The End Of The 19th Century

When vintage elements come back into fashion,they are inevitably accompanied by innovation and breakthroughs,and the end of the 19 th century in Europe,especially in the Victorian period,is very representative of this period,with many top fashion designers taking elements from this period and recreating them.In today’s fashion world,the vintage trend is very popular,and the vintage element has been given a deeper meaning,as it is not only limited to a simple change in form and material,but can also reflect the transformation of people’s lifestyle and ideology.Therefore,in a sense,vintage is a continuation of fashion.This article analyses and studies the X-shaped women’s dresses of Europe at the end of the 19 th century（i.e.from 1890 to 1900）in order to extract the most common design elements,stylistic features and structural characteristics and patterns of this period.Using scientific methods,the analysis summarises the structural features of the dresses and their pattern design rules,providing new ideas and methods for the innovative application of modern clothing design under the retro trend.By using eye-tracking technology to extract and analyse the design elements and styling features of women’s dresses at the end of the19 th century,it was determined that pleats were the most commonly used design element at the time,medium-length skirts with small A and bell-shaped hems were the best design shapes,and full wrap high collars,fish-shaped V-necks and square low collars were the best collar types.A total of 84 women’s skirt patterns were collected through research and historical books,and the patterns were reproduced using garment CAD technology and the pattern data was collected to create a database.By analysing the correlation between the various parts of the skirt,the equation of the pattern of the skirt was obtained and the method of designing the skirt was established.The design and production of the experimental dresses were verified by using CLO 3D virtual fitting technology to check the reasonableness of the board drawings before the production of the experimental dresses.Finally,the innovative design and application of the collection will be based on the design rules,styling features and pattern making methods obtained from the research.The thesis provides an in-depth study and application of the late 19 th century European X-shaped women’s dress from both design and board-making aspects,providing new ideas for the research and innovative design of historical costume reproduction.The research of this thesis has accuracy,rationality,practicality and feasibility.the method of making plates and the design rules of modelling of European clothing at the end of the 19 th century provide strong practical guidance for modern clothing design,and to a certain extent can further explore the classic design elements and modelling features of European historical clothing,so that the retro fashion trend can develop rapidly in the present time,and provide a scientific The theoretical basis and front-end research for the innovative design of historical clothing,with high academic value and practical value of application.