| This thesis reports a test of a coupled Boussinesq/bottom boundary layer model for cross-shore transport, applied under erosional and accretional wave conditions. The model calculations are conducted in predictive mode in order to assess model skill in performing short term assessments of beach profile evolution for single storm events. Measurements of free surface, velocities and bathymetry changes were obtained during the CROSSTEX experiment, carried out in the Large Wave Flume facility at Oregon State University in summer 2005. Twenty minute long simulations were carried out consecutively, up to a number of 14 for the erosional case and 47 for the accretional case. The model seems capable to reproduce the hydrodynamics with a high level of accuracy. With respect to the bathymetric evolution, the model seems to capture the areas where erosion and accretion are taking place. Although the bar location seems to agree well with the bathymetric measurements, specially for the accretional case, some discrepancies such as bar width underprediction arise due to various factors, of which the most significant is the wave reflection on the 1/20 beach slope. |
