The Research On The Characterization Of 1st Degree Taoist Priest's Robe In Qing Dynasty

The 1st degree Taoist priest's robe is a kind of top-grade vestment worn by Taoist high-level masters during their pilgrimage to the immortals.With its superb weaving and embroidery skills and meaningful patterns,it has become an important carrier of communication between people and gods in the ceremony.It is an important part of Taoist belief and culture,and also one of the traditional cost.This paper uses field investigations,typical examples,case analysis,and literature research to collect the 1st degree Taoist priest's robe and Taoist literature in the Qing Dynasty,and then the author visits Changchun Temple,Qingyang Palace,Wudang Mountain,Chisong Palace and Baiyun Temple,after that,the Taoist religious rituals and their costumes were carefully and comprehensively surveyed,and the three pieces of the 1st degree Taoist priest's robes collected by collector Ms.Shen Weiai were measured and analyzed.Based on a large number of first-hand materials,62 pieces of Qing Dynasty 1st degree Taoist priest's robes collected by museums,art galleries and people at home and abroad are taken as research objects,and many historical documents and picture materials are further combed,analyzed and studied in combination with real objects.This paper mainly studies the characteristics of the Qing Dynasty 1st degree Taoist priest's robes from four aspects: modeling,structure,decoration and technology,and tries to analyze the causes of its formation.The specific research is as follows:1.Based on the analysis of 62 pieces of 1st degree Taoist priest's robes,the modeling characteristics of the body,lapel and hem of the robes are obtained: the whole body of 1st degree Taoist priest's robe is wide,with the whole body in a “rectangular” shape,the length of the clothes up to the shins,and the sleeve length covering half the palm;the collar and lapel shape is straight collar and lapel,some collars are equipped with protective collars and closure parts in the front;There are four types of arc behind the line,all with wide edge,there are four types of the hem shape: straight-line,sharp angle,arc and straight front.2.Based on the measured data of 1st degree Taoist priest's robe in Qing Dynasty,this paper draws the structure diagram of the object,and analyzes the structural characteristics of the body,collar and sleeve of 1st degree Taoist priest's robe in Qing Dynasty: the body structure of 1st degree Taoist priest's robe in Qing Dynasty is consistent with the traditional Chinese clothing of “integrity and planarization”.The body structure is composed of one piece,there are four types of clothing pieces: one-piece,horizontal combination,vertical combination and H-shaped combination;the collar flap is a single plane structure without warpage,the leader has two structures of triangle and trapezoid,the front flap has two structures of closure and A-shape;the sleeve is straight with the body,and the cuff has three structures: non-sewing,partial stitching and point stitching.3.Starting from the collected images of the 1st degree Taoist priest's robe in Qing Dynasty,this paper summarizes the decorative elements,decorative colors and decorative structural features: the decorative elements of the 1st degree Taoist priest's robe are composed of three parts: the main Taoist elements,the auxiliary secular auspicious elements and the special Buddhist elements;the decorative colors are mostly traditional orthodox colors(yellow,red,black,white,blue)and purple,other colors are also available.The color mix is rich and diverse,with bright and quaint coexistence.The decorative structure is characterized by simple and complex,and The back decoration reflects the Taoist universe view of the three realms of “sky,earth and water” from top to bottom.4.Through the analysis of the manufacturing process of 62 pieces of the 1st degree Taoist priest's robes,the technical characteristics are obtained: the 1st degree Taoist priest's robes are exquisitely made and expensive,and the heavy use of flat gold or silver embroidery and Jixian embroidery is the most common in the 1st degree Taoist priest's robes.This complicated process is actually the common shape of the Confucian “etiquette” and the influence of hierarchy and order,and the pursuit of Taoism “flying to immortality”.The 1st degree Taoist priest's robe is a clothing carrier with formula features and distinct cultural connotations in Taoist rites,it follows the principle of simplicity in shape and structure,it's worthy of the longevity expectation in the decoration and production process and closely related to the spread of religious beliefs and doctrines.The 1st degree Taoist priest's robe is not only taken into account the aesthetic,comfort and functional requirements of the garment,moreover,it retains the Han costume culture that was hit hard by the rule of Manchu,and realized the integration of philosophical thoughts and folk culture in the development of Taoism.