Technical Research From Warp Brocade By Multi-heddle And Treadle To Weft Brocade With Low Rope Pattern Cards

Multi-heddle and treadle weaving is a very important weaving technique in the history of Chinese brocade.From the Shang and Zhou Dynasties to the Sui and Tang Dynasties in China,the ancient brocade experienced a transition from the warp brocade by multi-heddle and treadle to the weft brocade with low rope pattern cards,completing the evolution from plain weave to twill weave.In this paper,the ancient warp brocade and the weft brocade with low rope pattern cards were researched and practiced on pattern characteristics,weave structure,the traditional weaving technology,the pattern-cards picking.On the basis of the selection of silk yarn specifications and plant dyeing technique,the brocade craft restoration is realized by using weaving machines such as the multi-heddle and treadle loom and the low pattern-cards loom.Taking the “humanities,mountains and rivers” inscription brocade as an example,the detailed analysis of the ancient multi-heddle and treadle weaving techniques was carried out.Studies have shown that in order to obtain the minimum number of shafts of a pattern,it is necessary to quantitatively analyze a common element in the pattern,and by jagged the skeleton of the pattern,accurately analyze the number of shafts required for weaving the pattern,with a minimum number of shafts enables the weaving of complex patterns.“A warp into multi-shaft” is the premise of the realization of the brocade pattern.The unique weave structure of the ancient brocade and the traditional open line-heald ensemble make it possible to the threading method of “a warp into multi-shaft”.The expression of the pattern is determined by the threading plan,and the realization of the pattern or a small amount of change is determined by the pedaling process.These technologies work together to obtain a rich and vivid color and pattern effect,which provides technical support for the realization of the ancient warp brocade.The jacquard pattern of the traditional low pattern-cards loom is stored in the pattern-cards arrangement on the bamboo cage.With the help of the low pattern-cards jacquard decoration,the technique of the twill-type warp brocade in the Sui and Tang Dynasties was explored,and the imitation of the brown-yellow-landed brocade with style of the Tang dynasty was realized by the low pattern-cards jacquard with the shaft.Practice has shown that the possibility of the low patterncards jacquard weaving is present.Warp brocade and weft brocade are different in the pattern-cards picking crafts.The patterncards picking crafts of warp brocade is carried out according to the pattern,the pattern-card warps provoked by each pattern-card wefts correspond to different warp groups;and in the weaving crafts of weft brocade,according to the difference of the weft groups,the pattern is unfolded,each group of wefts correspond to a corresponding number of pattern-card wefts,and the pattern-card wefts picks up the pattern-card warps corresponding to the same color pattern.In the end,the imitation reappearance of the “ji” pattern weft brocade was realized.