Study On The Characteristics Of Shu Brocade Halo Pattern Technique

As the mother brocade of the "Three Great Chinese Brocades",Shu brocade is famous for its exquisite dyeing and weaving techniques,exquisite and vivid patterns,and enduring colors.Shu brocade halo patterned become a unique brocade with its unique warp stretching technique,diverse decorative themes and gorgeous gradient colors.Halo patterned brocades not only reflect the aesthetic concepts in the social context of successive dynasties,carry the ideology and folk customs of the Shu people,but also condense the superior skills and hard work and wisdom of the Shu people.The study of halo patterned brocade can help us better understand the characteristics and cultural connotations of the techniques,pay attention to the traditional Shu brocade weaving techniques,and pay attention to the inheritance and protection of intangible culture.In this study,we analyze the development and evolution of tucking,weaving techniques,expressions,influencing factors and application status of halo patterned brocade through fieldwork,literature search and comparative study.Firstly,halo patterned brocade and the halo patterned fabrics excavated before and after the Silk Road trade were compiled.From the perspective of decorative patterns,the definition of halo patterned fabrics is clarified,and the halo patterned fabrics found at home and abroad are classified.We summarize the expression and evolution of the halo pattern on fabrics at home and abroad,and analyze its influence on the characteristics of the halo pattern technique of Shu brocade.Secondly,according to its decorative effect,the halo patterned brocades are divided into two categories: colorful strip halo patterned brocades and ring halo patterned brocades.In order to explore the technical characteristics of the two types of halo patterned brocade,48 fabrics from the collections and documents of the Shujiang Brocade Institute,Sichuan Museum and China Silk Museum were selected as objects of study,we analyzed and summarized the weaving techniques and artistic characteristics of patterns and colors,such as dyeing,warping,picking and knotting.The influence of the political environment,aesthetic style,economic development,multiculturalism and application category on the two styles of technique and artistic style of brocade is also analyzed.Finally,the current situation and ways of application of halo patterned brocade in modern apparel,home textiles and creative products are reviewed,and the innovative design principles and organizational design principles of halo patterned brocade fabrics are analyzed.Based on the analysis of warp drafting process,organization structure,decorative pattern form and color,and according to the pattern weaving characteristics of dobby loom,the brocade pattern is transformed into a suitable geometric pattern form.The final weaving is carried out on the SGA598 dobby loom in order to provide a new way of thinking for combining the traditional techniques of Shu brocade with modern fabric design.