Process Research Of Whole-garment Knitted Casual Suits

Whole-garment technology refers to knitting an integrally formed three-dimensional knitted clothes on a four-needle bed flat knitting machine.After the fabric is off the machine,there is no need to cut and sew,which not only reduces the production process,but also increases the comfort and fit of the product.The research on the four-needle bed whole-garment technology is still in its initial stage,and most of the research focuses on the fields of the basic knitting principles of whole-garment and whole-garment conventional sweaters.With the introduction of the four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine and the development of whole-garment technology,one-time forming of suits also become possible.Whole-garment suits have many structural elements,complex knitting principles,and unique design methods,so studying the forming principle,design method,and process models of whole-garment suits,and discussing the design methods and processes of the whole-garment suit system,will provide theoretical and practical basis for the development and application of the whole-garment suit.Firstly,This article systematically introduced the forming process of whole-garment garments,scientifically classified them for the first time,and disassembled the whole-garment garments forming process into a single-piece process model,a front-rear piece connection process model,and a different part connection process model.Then this topic analyzed the forming principles and design methods of various process models in detail,and revealed that any clothing that can be fully formed and knitted can be converted directly or through structural deformation into one or a combination of several forming process types,and apply the corresponding process model,which laid the foundation for the process research of wholegarment suits.Secondly,through analysis and summary,the style design characteristics of the wholegarment suit and the applicable tissue type are discussed,and solutions are proposed for the problems that are likely to occur in the whole-garment knitting,and the whole-garment process design method is deeply studied according to the classification of the whole-garment process model and characteristics,the ideas and principles of single-piece process design,front and back piece process synthesis,and different parts process synthesis are given,the corresponding process design and process compression drawing method are summarized,and a fast and correct method for whole-garment process design was explored independently.Then,this paper focused on the establishment of a vertical knitting process model for a whole-garment suit,taking the six-shoulder raglan sleeve suit style as an example,to study the size adjustment and process conversion method from the woven suit pattern to the knitted pattern,and use the rectangular slip technique convert knitting pattern to whole-garment process.The in-depth study on the forming process of the sleeve connection of the suit,collar,hem,dividing line and some details,and the model of the overall shape of the suit and the structure of the body are established.Through the actual process design,the specific design methods of single-piece process,front-back piece process synthesis,and different parts process synthesis were studied;through the actual machine operation and parameter setting,the vertical knitting of the fully-formed suit was realized,and the vertical knitting process model of the fully-formed suit was verified.Finally,in order to enrich the styles of the suits,a whole-garment horizontal segmented knitting method was also proposed,focused on the establishment of a whole-garment suit horizontal knitting process model.Taking the six-shoulder flat shoulder sleeve suit style as an example,the method of converting the pattern of the woven suit to the full forming process was studied.Establish a model of the overall profile and body structure of the horizontally knitted suit,discuss in depth the process of connecting the sleeve body of the horizontally knitted suit,and propose that the ratio of horizontally knitted to balance the difference in width between the sleeve and the sleeve.In order to quickly carry out the process conversion of the left and right slices,a process model of the conversion of the left and right pieces in the horizontally divided knitting was established.Through practical process design and knitting on the four-needle flat machine,the horizontal knitting of whole-garment suits was implemented.The research results provide ideas and directions for the design and development of whole-garment suits with varying profiles.