Study On Lace' Origin,History And Chemical Embroidery Lace Design

As accessories or fabric,lace is widely used in fashion and home textile industry.Lace originated in BC and flourished after the Renaissance.It was introduced into China around 1860's,and many local handicraft products were derived in China.With the development of the Industrial Revolution,part of lace craft and industry have successfully transformed into the industrialized era.There are many kinds of lace.In foreign countries,handmade lace is often named according to crafts or places of origin.In China,it has been called lace,"huabian"-boarder,or"chousha"-drawn work.The concept of lace is vague.There are lacking of comprehensive cognition and clear classification of lace,as well as lace modern design method.Especially,research based on pattern layout,graphic design,deformation feature of classical lace are lacking.At present,chemical embroidery technology is more and more widely used.However,the exploration of controllability,layout and innovative design method of graphics design are rare.In view of the above problems,the following three aspects of research have been carried out.First of all,the development and evolution of lace categories at home and abroad is analyzed.Through a large number of domestic and foreign literature research,museum and exhibition investigations,lace information is obtained and summarized.In this thesis,the history of handmade lace domestic and overseas is divided into three stages:origin,development and silence.The classification,region and craft change of lace were summarized and inferred.According to the craft characteristics,foreign handmade lace is divided into two categories:needle lace and bobbin lace.Its famous varieties are introduced in detail.As a type of imported product,lace can take root in China and develop their national characteristic,which is related to China's long history of embroidery,braiding,and weaving.In this thesis,the background of China's relevant crafts was expounded from three aspects:embroidery,leno and gauze fabric,and knot or net weaving.The domestic handmade lace can be divided into four aspects according to regions;there are Xiaoshao region in Zhejiang Province(Hangzhou Venice Lace,Taizhou embroidery),Chaoshan region,Shandong region,and Jiangsu region.The modern development pattern of China's lace industry into can summed into four aspects,named as "protection of intangible cultural heritage and museum","recreation of high-end crafts","branding of operation" and "industrialization of modernize procedure".Clearly analyzing the origin,history,crafts,classification,and development patterns of lace have certain theoretical significance for the design and application of lace.Secondly,patterns and deformation feature of lace are studied.According to the relationship between "motif" and "ground",the pattern layout of lace is divided into small motif and net type,large motif and bars type,continuous motif type.Furthermore,according to the configuration the ground is divided into crossing lines type,polygon bars type,and warp knitting polygons type.Through geometric analysis and calculation,the deformation feature was predicted and preliminary conclusions were obtained.Through chemical embroidery design practice,make net samples,test the elongation of different directions,and improve the conclusion.The conclusions about the deformation feature of lace ground are as follows:(1)Elasticity of different types of ground:crossing lines type<polygon bars type<warp knitting polygons type.(2)For crossing lines type ground,along the lines direction,the elasticity is poor;in other directions,the elasticity would be better.When the directions of lines are more than 3,the formability of ground is good.(3)conclusions about deformation feature of polygon bars type ground:For the same polygon,the maximum deformation in each direction appear at the deformation limit position,and the farther away from the limit position,the smaller the deformation is.For different polygons,the deformation rate is related to polygons' aspect ratio in each direction.The larger the aspect ratio in the force direction is,the larger the deformation rate is.The above conclusions can be used to predict and design the elasticity of lace in different directions.At the same time,the lace ground design method in this thesis can provide new methods and ideas for the design of chemical embroidery lace.The practice of product innovation designs are carried out by combining the theoretical conclusions and adopting the chemical embroidery craft.The design process include inspiration,Photoshop and Adobe illustrator assisted pattern design,embroidery design,machine operation,and getting the finial products.Taking three sets of designs with different themes as examples,describe the design method and process of chemical embroidery lace,and display the final products.