The Clothes&Accessories Consciousness Of Literati In The Eastern Jin Dynasty

Ancient people believed that clothes should conform to their identity.In ancient China,clothes and accessories not only had the function of keeping warm,but also were used by Confucianism as a tool to safeguard the feudal system.Literati is a special social group,they appear in all social strata,such as the aristocratic class and the poor class.Therefore,literati's clothes and accessories are influenced by the fashion of the times,and to a certain extent leads the fashion.From the establishment of the Eastern Jin Dynasty by Emperor Sima Rui to the overthrow of Emperor Sima Dewen by Liu Yu,the Eastern Jin Dynasty lasted for more than 100 years.The literati in the Eastern Jin Dynasty have a distinct sense of dress.Compared with the former dynasty,their clothes have more characteristics of the times.This paper makes a detailed arrangement of the background and the state of the literati'^clothes in the Eastern Jin Dynasty.The article focuses on the study of the unique clothes and accessories consciousness and literary outlook formed by the social,cultural and economic backgrounds of the Eastern Jin Dynasty.The introduction of this article mainly solves two problems.The first is the significance of the topic.First of all,the Eastern Jin Dynasty was a dynasty in which literary works and costumes were flourishing.During the Wei and Jin Dynasties,wars often led to Dynasty changes.As a result,people's Confucianism has faded.Especially under the influence of different thoughts of Confucianism,Buddhism and Taoism,the literati in the Eastern Jin Dynasty began to pursue unconstrained dressing methods.The ethnic costumes of the northern minorities,such as hats and trousers,gradually entered the southern region,and the costumes of the Eastern Jin Dynasty developed and flourished.Secondly,the research on"the clothes and accessories consciousness of literati in the Eastern Jin Dynasty"in academic circles is still relatively weak,and there are no complete works.At present,the research on this field is also concentrated in the field of history and culture.The second problem to be solved in the introduction is to sort out the research status in this field since 1949.This step provides the main research direction for this paper.The first chapter discusses the background and source of literati's clothes and accessories in the Eastern Jin Dynasty.Firstly,the first section deduces that the clothes and accessories of the literati in the Eastern Jin Dynasty have three characteristics:complexity,popularity and change according to the times of the literati in the Eastern Jin Dynasty.The confusion of political environment determines the complex nature of clothing.The weakening of people's Confucian concept of etiquette and the superior aristocrat's right to speak are important reasons.The relatively stable economic environment determines the popular characteristics,and the complex ideology and culture determines the changing characteristics.The literati in the Eastern Jin Dynasty liked white clothes and thought that strange clothes were beautiful.They even think that nakedness is a beautiful act.The costumes of literati in Eastern Jin Dynasty mainly come from family textiles,salary income,commercial trade and gifts from friends.The author Ganbao's novel Sou Shen Ji recorded many plots of clothing trade.Jin Poetry and Jin Prose also recorded many literary works in which literati gave each other coats,cloth,wishes and dust.Chapter two discusses the characteristics and attitudes of three types of literary groups in dress:aristocratic literati group,poor literati and hermit li'terati group,monk and Taoist literati group.The aristocratic literati are the main body of the literati in the Eastern Jin Dynasty.They live a superior life and do not worry about eating and dressing.Their thoughts,based on Confucianism and influenced by metaphysics,began to go to two extremes:attaching special importance to clothing and despising clothing.For example,noble literati often wear clothes made of feathers and hold fans made of feathers,which reflects their attitude of attaching importance to clothing.They also wear hats without rules and like to be naked,which shows that they do not attach importance to clothing.By contrast,the literati of other classes are much simpler.Because of their low income,they usually wear simple clothes and hats,and even occasionally their clothes will be worn out.The clothes of monks and Taoists have their own characteristics because of their religious beliefs.Monks like to wear gowns and have a high demand on the color of their clothes.Taoist priests do not attach importance to the clothes before immortality,but yearn for the clothes of immortals after immortality.The third chapter is the core of this article.The clothes and accessories of the literati in the Eastern Jin Dynasty reflects their clothes and accessories consciousness.For example,the funeral dress inherited the principle of maintaining etiquette with emotion in the Wei and Jin Dynasties.During the funeral,it is difficult to praise a filial son who lives hard,but it is easy to praise a filial son who does not pay attention to etiquette but is very sad.At the same time,the struggle between"Famous Religion" and "Nature"is also reflected in clothing."Jiangzuo Bada"is obsessed with naked behavior,which Yue Guang and Dai Kui both criticize.In the literary works of the Eastern Jin Dynasty,the plot of "fancy clothes" also appeared,which was proved by the theory of the induction between heaven and man.The literati's criticism of the clothes and accessories of the northern minorities reflects their orthodox thought of the Central Plains.In the literary works of the Eastern Jin Dynasty,there were often plots restricting women's clothes and accessories,which was related to the phenomenon that men and women exchanged clothes in society at that time.It also shows the transcendence of etiquette and rules of the Eastern Jin Dynasty.Chapter four studies the influence of literati's clothes and accessories consciousness on literary works in the Eastern Jin Dynasty.In tales of mystery and the supernatural,skirts,handkerchiefs,trousers and shoes will become the key clue.Costume is an important part of the evaluation of characters in the Eastern Jin Dynasty,so literati describe the costume of goddess in detail and the appearance of goddess in the literary works of female images such as Goddess Prose.The artistic style changes from attaching importance to the similarity of appearance to the similarity of temperament.This transformation process was basically completed after Tao Yuanming'^Xianqing Prose.In the Southern Dynasty,literati were keen on describing women's appearance and returned to the aesthetic standard of attaching importance to appearance.At the end of the article,appendix is a table of clothes and accessories literature collation of literati in the Eastern Jin Dynasty.This table is divided into four parts:clothes,hats,shoes and accessories.It classifies the elements of clothing in literary works.