Research On The Suit Pattern Based On Men’s Special Body

In recent years, with the improvement of living standards, the significant changes of diet structure, coupled with people lacking awareness of fitness, which have led to great changes in size. Due to the diversity and complexity of the figure and uncertainty of the pattern, so it is difficult for special body to choose suitable clothing in the market,which also bring challenges to designers and researchers. So how to meet the demand of clothing function, comfort and beautification for special body, pattern making has a hot spot in the research of fashion design.In the process of the enterprise investigation and practice, the actual problems were found in the process of the men’s suit pattern correction for special body from the order of Germany guest. In view of the above-mentioned facts, the enterprise need to solve it to improve the accuracy on pattern correction and work efficiency. This paper takes it as research background, with classifying the special body pattern, constructing special body mannequin, researching the optimum design of pattern making for men’s suit for special body by draping, aims to provide ideas for special body pattern making and optimized design, also provide a reference for enterprise in process of special body pattern. The main work and approach in the study are outlined as follows:(1) 368 samples of special body pattern were selected from enterprise, statistical parts of each pattern were 48, using the paired T-test and correlation analysis, the statistical indicators decreased from 48 to 27, the correlation coefficient between different parts show that the correlation between the pattern adjustment of various parts and the data of human body are consistent, that is, there are high correlation about the indicators between the length and the length direction as well as the girth and girth direction. While the indicators of length and girth & width are highly relevant with the length adjustment and bust adjustment respectively.(2) Six factors were extracted from pattern classification indicators by factor analysis and cluster analysis: torso factor, front length factor, armhole width factor, girth factor,shoulder slope factor and the shoulder dart factor. On the base of K-mean cluster analysis,the patterns of special body were divided into four categories: patterns of chest special body, back special body, fat special body and highlight belly special body.(3) Combined with the characters of special body, reference to the adjustment of relevantparts of special body pattern and the variability of the special parts in the process of making pattern, special body mannequins were constructed. In the paper, the highlight belly special mannequin, chicken chest special mannequin, high back special mannequins and shoulder slope mannequin were constructed for they could be achieved on the standard mannequin, and all kinds of special mannequins were divided into three categories.(4)The defects were analyzed when special body was wearing standard samples, the optimum design of pattern making and the parameter design of detail parts were researched,then by making samples, observing the effect when samples were in special mannequins and further adjusting inappropriate parts, finally the purpose of making the optimum samples fit special mannequins was achieved.This paper was researched on the base of the correction methods of special body, the data of different parts was for quantitative analysis, and by making samples to verify the rationality of adjustment, all theses results are significant to theoretical research and provide a reference for enterprise.