Study On Bust Darts Of Fitted Men's Suit Based On Body Morphology

Men's suit,as a very important category of clothing in men's daily life and work,is one of the most classic cloth in men's wear.It also can be used in formal or informal occasions,and play a very important role in any occasion.However,a common problem with men's suits currently on the market is that the size of men's suits does not completely match the corresponding human body,and the ratio of such problems is high,and men's suits are generally large and fat.Secondly,the human body data used in the design and production of China's clothing enterprises are mainly derived from the National Standard Sizing System for Garments——Men,but different human have different body shapes.Even the male bodies of the same size also have morphological differences.It can be seen that the current pattern-block design of men's suits cannot meet the needs of different body shapes for clothing fit.Bust darts are the most important part of shaping the fit of clothing whether they are in men's or women's clothing,Especially in the pattern-block design of men's suit.Because classic men's suits are very particular about fit.Bust darts design are the main method to deal with the shape of the different human chest,and the key to shaping the ideal chest shape.However,there are few studies on the design of bust darts in men's suit structure.In this paper,through three-dimensional human body scanning experiments,70 young men who are graduating or looking for a job after graduated from the age of 18 to 25 are measured as research samples.According to the national standard of men's clothing,70 individuals were divided into Y,A,and B body types,and the shapes and characteristics of each type of male body image were analyzed from three views of front,side,and horizontal cross section.Secondly,each type of three-dimensional human body is divided into front half and back half by the "body center-of-gravity vertical cross-section method",then getting the relevant data of the cross-sections of the chest,waist,and hips from each type of body to establish a size database of men's suit for data analysis.Finally,based on the data analysis,a new method for measuring the size of the human body—the characteristic parameter of the male body shape of is used in the bust darts design of the male suit to create a new way of men's suit pattern-block.Therefore,it can provide a reference for the personalized needs of clothing fit and comfort of different male body shapes,improve the fit of the pattern-block design of male suits of different body shapes.,optimize the structure design method of men's suits.Finally,to provide more scientific and rigorous pattern-making method for MTM.