| In the past years, Song Brocade developed with unique style, it’s precise and meticulous in pattern, strong but pliable in texture, flat and crisp; it’s symmetric but changed, rich but smooth in design pattern; it’s bright and complicated without fiery or random in color application, which give us classical charm. Because of the flowering structure with warp and weft combined, the weave is colorful in lines and organizations. Combined with traditional production process and modern aesthetic, Song Brocade is now used in business gifts, home decor, decorative works, home textile, apparel antique art and so on.Currently, fabrics applied to bags are main artificial leather, plastic film, oxford, canvas and some animal skin at home, because of monotonous styles and few varieties, they lack competitiveness in international market, there are hardly any international brands. Song Brocade is a kind of practical fabric, it is soft but firm with exquisite patterns. If apply Song Brocade to bags, we can make full use of its feature to improve grades of bags, at the same time, it can reflect Chinese traditional culture, endowed with theoretical and practical significance.The study of the thesis is Song Brocade applied to bags. Main purpose is to analyze and investigate its texture, structure, crafts and so on, then establish physical performance indicator system against bags. By replacing raw materials, varying structures and finishing, some properties are improved, the value applied to bags is also improved.The specific solving process is:(1) Sort out the history and culture of Song Brocade, explore the purpose and significance, establish the foundation of protecting and developing this intangible cultural heritage.(2) Do system analysis of structure and production process of Song Brocade from silk thread, texture, structure, weaving parameters and so on, brief the trick of Song Brocade, then the design of samples is raised. (3) For the design and production of samples, test their physical properties, including wear resistance, crease elasticity, pilling property, dimensional stability and so on against the application of bags, establish physical performance indicator system which provide the reference of practical application. Furthermore, through comparing different specification, the reference of how to improve its performance is gotten.(4) According to the testing and comparing result, from the perspective of raw materials and structures, through replacing material, varying structure, some physical properties are improved, this caters research purposes and practical application, it is also a great innovation to traditional crafts.(5) For some problems unsolved in part4, like the feature of poor anti-pilling property and good wettability, cationic waterborne polyurethane is used to do fabric finishing which can improve its anti-pilling property and change its wettability(from hydrophilicity to hydrophobicity), with the optimization design method used, the optimized process project is selected, and other related performance are kept or improved. Finally analyze the reasons with infrared spectrographic method.In summary, after the introduction of history, culture, structure, production process of Song Brocade, for the application of bags, the design of samples is raised, then establish physical performance indicator system through testing. Furthermore, according to testing result and application, the methods of replacing material, varying structure and finishing are used, which shows the effect of performance improvement is excellent. |