| Viloft fiber is100%from eucalyptus natural lignin，is a representative of new purenatural green environmental protection fiber, a kind of special viscose fiber with unique flatcross section and blunt zigzag surface, thus made it good antistatic property, excellentwicking，air permeability and the function of moisture adjustment.This subject used viloft fiber in developing and studying new functional knitwear, tomeet the growing needs of people.The choosed object for research is the production ofviloft pure yarn from Hebei Baoding ZhongFang Iraq cotton textile co., LTD., its finenessis14.8tex, the fiber specifications for1.63dtex×38mm. This subject carried on researchfrom the basic performance of viloft fiber and viloft pure yarn,containing themorphological structure of viloft fiber, the infrared spectrogram analysis and variousmechanical properties; As well as to the test and evaluation index of viloft pure yarninclude: yarn strength, regularity,twist, moisture content, heat resistance, acid-proof andalkaline-proof.Through the research for basic performance of viloft fiber and its pure yarn, thissubject developed the six different structures of viloft fiber knitted fabrics of weft plainstitch,1×1rib stitch, half-milano rib stitch, milano rib stitch, cardigan stitch and halfcardigan stitch on the STOLL-CMS530-HP computer flat knitting machine, and test thedensity, thickness,gram weight per square meters and shrinkage and other basicperformance of six samples.For six different structures of viloft fiber knitted grey fabric, this subject adoptedalkali oxygen a bath method, using orthogonal analysis combined with single factoranalysis to test for many times, and ultimately using white degree and bursting strength fortesting index determined the best scouring and bleaching process of viloft fiber knittedfabric for: sodium hydroxide usage,2.5%(o.w.f); peroxide usage,3%(o.w.f);temperature,80℃; bleaching time,60min; sodium silicate1.5g/L, bath ratio,1:15.This subject adopted a bath two steps to dye viloft fiber knitted fabric after scouringand bleaching, choosing reactive brilliant red dye (KD-8B), using single factor method tooptimize the influence factors of dyeing effect, by dyeing rate and the dyeing depth for testing index to find out the best process for: dyeing stage: dye was2%(o.w.f), the dosageof sodium chloride for30g/L, leveling agent dosage is0.5g/L, dyeing temperature of60℃, dyeing time for30min; color fixation stage: sodium carbonate dosage is30g/L,color fixation temperature80℃, color fixation time40min, bath ratio1:20; soaping stages:temperature90℃, bath ratio1:20, soap detergent1g/L, soaping time for15min.Then dosoft and heat setting finishing to dyed fabric.Systematically test analysis the wearability of knitted fabric made of viloft fiber afterfinishing.Test items included fastness thermal comfort, appearance stability and so on, theconcrete indexs are bursting strength, heat preservation,moisture permeability, airpermeability, hygroscopicity, drapability, fold resilience, shrinkage and Stiffness,etc. Onthis basis, used comprehensive evaluation of fuzzy mathematics method to analyze thewearability of knitted fabric of six different structures. According to the test results can beseen: various performance indicators of viloft knitted fabric can satisfy the use requirement,overcoming the shortcomings of easy electrostatic, bad hygroscopicity and air permeabilityfor chemical fiber, and being good to skin, has catered to the people’s pursuit to the greenenvironmental protection, health care clothing, suitable for developing knittedfabric,especially on light clothing and kmitted underwear, having considerabledevelopment prospects. |
