| Flat filament is a special yarn, which is colorful, shows glitter effect, and has well wearing characteristics and unique decorative effect. It not only has good performance to give full expression to the popular fabric, but also enriches varieties of textiles to satisfy people's growing demand for personalization. However, the following problems exist in weaving process: First, flat filament will twist inevitably while unwinding, which makes the fabric uneven and impacts the luster and the handle. Second, flat filament is easy to be elongated and it makes the luster of fabric uneven after finished. The color on the surface of flat filament will be taken off, which causes defects, color difference, broken ends and even badly brings some effect on the fabric appearance. Third, weft insertion is difficult and weft yarn is easy slide from common rapier because of flat filament is in a thin and flat shape.To the above problems, there is no systemic research on flat filament's weaving technology at present through referring to relevant literature. Therefore, in order to provide theoretical basis to actual production and other theoretical studies, this paper made the study according to flat filament and its fabric, from the following aspects:(1) The tensile properties and elastic properties of flat filament were tested by Electronic Single Yarn Strength Tester YG061. The results showed that: the value of breaking tenacity of flat filament was not high, the value of breaking elongation was much higher than other conventional yarns, the value of initial modulus was low and the elastic recovery property was general. It indicated that flat filament had good extension and pliability, but to textiles, this small force under the high elongation rates made flat filament easily be stretched and deformed. It took a serious influence on fabric appearance.(2) As to the problem of flat filament twist when unwinding, the mode of transmission line was improved and the weft let-off device was studied and analyzed. The weft let-off device was used to reduce twists while the flat filament unwinding. The rapier head and weft tension were studied and analyzed according to the problem that the flat filament easily was stretched and deformed when weaving. On the one hand, the differences between flat filament rapier head and common rapier head were analyzed, and then made some improvements to flat filament rapier head in design; on the other hand, weft tensions were measured and combined with the analysis of mechanical properties of flat filament, the suitable specifications of flat filament for weaving were found out.(3) Flat filament twist on the surface of fabric, forming twist points effect. The objective evaluation method for the phenomena of flat filament twist was built up. The fabrics of flat filament were tested by the methods and the test results indicated that: the surface of flat filament fabrics were even and the number of entanglement crosslink is reduced by 80% after using weft let-off device.(4) The flat filament fabrics'glossiness and surface friction properties were tested and analyzed. Compared with the flat filament fabrics'weaving effect that using weft let-off device and without weft let-off device, the research showed that: the effect of the fabrics which using weft let-off device was better. The fabrics'surface reflected light was more concentrated, luster strong and handle more even.(5) Based on the previous study of weft insertion technology, we designed flat filament fabric. The flat filament fabric which had 1∶1 weft arrangement was designed through combining the characteristics of flat filament that show a unique style and glitter effect, patterns design and construction design matching. The product was put a unique style by using lustrous rayon and flat filament. |
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