Research On Slippage Property Of Polyester Filament Fabrics

Polyester silk-like fabrics in the clothing has been widely used in textile. This kind fabric has a good performance in wrinkle-resistance, wash and wear properties and color fastness to rub. However, the seam slippage is often happened. The seam slippage of the fabric would have a great affect on the appearance of the fabric. Besides, the fabric would be thrown away by the user because of the seam slippage.The aim of this paper is to found the influence of the structure and the sewing process on the seam slippage property. Polyester filament fabrics were chosen in this paper including ten kinds of chiffon fabrics and eight kinds of polyester taffeta fabrics. The basic parameters were tested according to the national standard "Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics". By the correlation analysis, it was founded that there was a negative relationship between the seam slippage value in warp direction and the fabric tightness in warp direction. Based on the correlation analysis, the regression equation was obtained between the seam slippage value and the fabric tightness in warp direction (weft).The study found that the warp yarns were thicker than the weft yarns of the two kinds of polyester fabrics as well as the warp density tighter than the weft, resulting in the phenomenon seam slippage were more likely to happen in wrap direction. Usually, the warp direction is parallel to the vertical in the process of manufacturing. Therefore, the test planning was only to take the seam slippage property in weft direction into consideration.In this paper, the matching sample T test analysis method was taken to analysis the relationship between stitch density and the seam slippage value, the seam width and the seam slippage value, the thread fineness and the seam slippage value. It was founded that Stitch density and seam width had a significant impact on the seam slippage property. It was showed that the seam slippage value were getting bigger of the chiffon fabrics when stitch distant got bigger, while the seam slippage value getting smaller of the polyester silk-like fabrics when the stitch distant becomes larger. The results showed that the seam slippage value was tending to be larger when he seam width was wider and the thread was thicker both of the chiffon and polyester silk-like fabrics。Through the analysis of variance, it was found that the first and the most important influence factors was the thread fineness and the second was stitch density among the factors on the seam slippage of the chiffon fabrics. It was founded that the condition for the chiffon fabrics not easy to happen seam slippage was a combination of c3(1.2cm in seam width), al (60S/3in suture), b1 (five needle/cm in stitch density). It was found that the first and the most important influence factors was the thread fineness and the second was seam width among the factors on the seam slippage of the chiffon fabrics. The results showed that the condition for polyester silk-like fabrics not easy to happen seam slippage was a combination of c3(1.2cm in seam width), al (60S/3in suture), b3(three pin/cm in stitch density).In this paper, comprehensive analyses were taken to study the factors on the seam slippage of the polyester fabrics. The relationship was built between the structure parameters and the seam slippage of the polyester fabrics for the manufacturers to forecast the theory value of the seam slippage before sourcing the fabrics. At the same time, the most sewing-math were suggested for the chiffon and the polyester fabrics as a guider for the sewing process of the chiffon and the polyester fabrics.