| At the end of the 19 th century,the development of textile manufacturing in the West had moved towards industrialization,in which the development and manufacture of men's clothing systems had become increasingly stable and perfect.The level of textile manufacturing in East Asian countries,on the other hand,is still clearly stuck in the stage of main handicraft.The development of men's clothing is still built based on feudal rituals as a guide.With the influence of Western cultural exchanges and war colonization,East Asian countries opened their doors and carried out different degrees of westernization and reform movements.At the same time,the influx of Western culture had a profound impact on the change of East Asian menswear in modern times.This thesis takes the occurrence of "Westernization" in China as a starting point,and further focuses on the westernization of men's clothing in East Asian countries in the modern era.The westernized men's clothing under the influence of this process is taken as the object of study,and the composition and changes of the westernized men's clothing in East Asia are discovered by sorting out and summarizing their forms and characteristics.With the change in the image of men's clothing,the differences in appearance before and after westernization are discussed in the context of wearing habits and purposes,and the expressions of masculinity arising from them are discussed to further discover the changes in the concept of fashion and the significance of the changes in East Asian men's clothing in the modern era,so as to explore in-depth the meaning and inspiration of westernization on the development of modern and contemporary men's clothing.The study spans 109 years,from 1840 to 1949,from the beginning of Westernization in East Asian countries to its essential stabilization.This thesis presents a specific analysis of Westernized men's clothing from various East Asian countries using a combination of documentary,pictorial,and physical examination methods.Due to the various styles involved and the large number at the same time.T The research was conducted based on the regulations and style types in the relevant dress decrees issued by each country during the study period,and the corresponding style patterns were drawn up based on the data recorded in the corresponding contents and compared with the existing objects.The main body of research in the full paper consists of six parts.The first part is Chapter 2,which examines the process and history of westernization of men's clothing in East Asia through a combination of documents and pictures and provides a preliminary description of the extent and circumstances of westernization that occurred in each country to establish the basis for subsequent stratified discussions.The second part is the third chapter,which draws on the typological and phased approach to list all the information on the westernization of men's clothing that appears in the relevant dress decrees during the study period.The details of men's clothing in the ordinances are documented in detail,and a style map is drawn with the aid of historical photographs and documents of the same period.The types,styles,structural characteristics,and wearing styles of various East Asian men's clothing categories are clarified.The clear characteristics of Westernized men's clothing in East Asia are further summarized with a view to a comprehensive and systematic recognition of the classification subtypes of Westernized men's clothing in East Asia.The third part is the fourth chapter,which develops a discussion of contrasts and changes by analyzing some of the styles and structures of Western countries that caused the westernization of East Asian men's clothing during the study period,in the context of historical documents and westernization.The dimensions involved include the contrast between the West and the East,in the East Asian cultural sphere,etc.The approach used is a combination of style drawings with photographs,objects,and documents for cross-referencing.In this way,the links between Westernized menswear are identified,and the origins of East Asian menswear are examined.The fourth part is the fifth chapter,which begins with a discussion of the types of westernized men's clothing in East Asian countries in the modern era,placing these typical westernized men's clothing on a timeline to discover how the same types of men's clothing changed during the modern development process.The discussion of the changes is mainly concerned with the variations of the same style in the process of molding and development.In this context,the uniform characteristics that emerged in westernized menswear also had an impact on the body that carried it,reflecting a strong regulatory function and class expression.With the help of corresponding sociological theories,the expression of body and discipline,hierarchy and class in westernized men's clothing is analyzed with concrete cases.The fifth part,Chapter 6,analyzes the above work in the social context in which modern East Asia is situated and discusses the transformation of male fashion perceptions in East Asia after Westernization.The change in men's clothing produced a completely different image of men's dress than before,and thus the expression of distinct masculinity in East Asian countries after Westernization,while producing corresponding dynamic changes under the conditions of changing perceptions of male fashion caused by Westernization.Finally,the appearance of specific men in East Asian countries before and after Westernization is used to illustrate the corresponding changes in fashion perceptions that occurred.The final section,Chapter 7,brings together the analysis of the previous sections to take a more macroscopic view of the significance of westernization as a historical event in modern East Asia for the reform of men's fashion in each country in the modern era.Further,the process of westernization of men's clothing in modern East Asia superficially caused a change in men's clothing from the old to the new,but the underlying logic followed by the change in men's clothing in it has inspired the development of contemporary men's clothing,thus illustrating the deeper meaning of the previous series of studies.The localized improvement of East Asian men's clothing in westernization is related to the differences in attitudes towards western culture,social status,political system,and reform ideas in the East Asian cultural circle.Concerning the western military uniform system and its management concept as the basis for improvement,East Asian Westernized men's wear inherits its tailoring,structure,function,and style.As a result,it presents a unified trend of men wearing uniforms in the final localization process.Although there is a high degree of unity in the final image of male attire in East Asia,the corresponding masculinity is ultimately shaped into different results due to the differences in the social field.The westernization of men's wear in East Asia was based on the traditional men's wear in the19 th century under feudal etiquette.Under the impetus of Western invasion and revolutionaries in various countries,East Asian countries embarked on westernization and reform movements of varying degrees.Among them,men's clothing as one of the dress cultures was also significantly affected,especially for the East Asian military and diplomatic groups and institutions that faced the impact of Western culture and became the most prominent pioneers of men's clothing reform.According to the types of westernized men's clothing in various countries,Westernized men's clothing in East Asia is mainly divided into the formal dress,ordinary wear,and work clothes(uniform).There are regular dress,formal dress,and military dress among the formal dress.Regular clothes following the state's constitution are slightly different but involve soldiers and police regular clothes,royal and noble regular clothes.Working clothes are usually uniform styles based on the professional characteristics and identify characteristics of the wearer.The wearer covers a wide range of layers and is more flexible in the way of wearing and the regularity of the system compared with the first two.The westernization of men's style is mainly based on French,British,and German dresses,military uniforms,and uniforms,which are modified in style and structure.With a focus on function and ease of male activity as the basis for localized changes,Western-style tailoring came to take more into account body shaping.The Chinese style was looser,and the cut structure was relatively simple,while the Japanese and Korean peninsula were more fitted and more complex in terms of the treatment of fabrics.At the same time,in terms of production,drawing on the advantages of mass production of Western-style men's clothing,the East Asian countries gradually developed their capabilities in textile manufacturing to adapt to the process of modern men's clothing production.As for the decorative patterns and styles of westernized men's wear,the traditional patterns with national characteristics of each country are selected as the pattern content.However,only Japanese,and Korean patterns have formed specific stylistic trends.Chinese westernized men's wear involves patterns,so it is impossible to discuss its style accurately.The former adopts the Paulie pattern,chrysanthemum branch pattern,and cherry blossom pattern.Usually,chrysanthemum and cherry blossom do not appear at the same time.The combination method combines plant leaves and flowers,mainly continuous and independent patterns.Patterns are primarily found in formal dress and ordinary clothes,while large patterns are rarely seen in work clothes.In terms of the pattern style,due to the different styles of western men's wear that Japan referred to in different periods,there were different styles in different periods,mainly the gorgeous style of French court men's wear and the strict style of the German Prussian army.In Contrast,"Jia He pattern" appears in The Chinese pattern,usually used as an insignia.The pattern is embroidered in gold thread,and the gold is added in the form of embroidered gold,while silver thread is used for lower-ranking personnel.In general,the density of the pattern determines the position of the wearer.The hierarchy of decorative patterns is the same for Westernized men's clothing throughout East Asia,with more elaborate and ornate decorative styles corresponding to men of higher rank and status,and vice versa.East Asian westernized men's wear has inherited the characteristics of low differentiation in western men's wear,so there is no noticeable difference in the style,color,and fabric of the same type of men's wear.For men who need to be classified,only the number and color of the pattern are determined.Although the westernization of men's wear in East Asia eventually leads to the uniformity of men's dress image,the ultimate expression of masculinity is different.It is mainly caused by the different status of different countries in the social field.Therefore,wearing the same Westernized men's style shows an entirely different temperament expression.At the same time,westernization has minimized the concept of identity difference through clothing in the feudal ritual system.However,the class expression reflected by the characteristics of westernized men's uniforms will still be reflected in detail such as the advantages and disadvantages of the fabrics used by men,and the production process,especially in the styles of westernized men's uniforms,such as all kinds of work clothes.In the process of modernization and reform,East Asian men's clothing gradually absorbed the best features of Western men's clothing culture and formed a simple and practical concept of men's clothing.By learning the characteristics of the uniforms of the armies of the world's most powerful countries,we created a Western-style modified menswear type worn by men in our own country.The modernized men's fashion was a complete succession of the functionality of Western men's fashion because of the change in the concept and the main body of men's fashion.However,at the same time,the tendency of monotonous appearance and uniformization made men develop by the image of men's dress that the rulers wanted to create when they first established such uniforms.This culminated in a natural and positive physical domestication,a willingness to serve individuals and groups with absolute power.The wearing of westernized men's clothing represented an acknowledgement of the changes in modernity and thus the ability to express a progressive image of men after westernization.However,the change of assimilation has also led to the dissipation of the diverse and unique ethnic culture within the traditional East Asian menswear.The changes in men's fashion perceptions,as expressed through the modernization of East Asian men's clothing,have determined the multiple significance of the westernization of men's clothing in the development of modern men's fashion.At the same time,the reform of modern menswear has also inspired the cultural inheritance and dynamic development in the development of contemporary menswear and has revealed the essence of the multifarious changing menswear types reflected in the present time. |
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