| Shandong, called Qilu in ancient times, is one of important birthplaces of Chinese civilization. Qilu culturewhich was born and grown in this land is the essence and main body of Chinese traditional culture. Confucianculture is the main body and the core of Qilu culture, which has rich connotations. Traditional Confucian feudalethical culture has been deeply influenced and restricted the life and tie-in dress of Shandong people since ancienttimes, and rich local features of Shandong costume culture are important carriers to perform theories of theConfucian feudal ethical culture. The politics, economy and culture in modern Shandong changed greatly, andthey produced huge effects on the dress development. Shandong province especially in peninsula coastal area hadtypical characteristics of cultural exchange between the Chinese and Western costume. Traditional costumesystem also changed with huge society’s transformation, and emerged the phenomenon combining Chinese andWestern dress. The research on modern Shandong costume, can not only analyze the development level ofShandong society through their costume phenomenon, but also explore the history and culture connotations ofmodern Chinese costume from the angle of regional costume. Based on studies of overall arrangement works ofliterature materials including papers, books, newspapers, etc, this dissertation takes Shandong costume as researchobject, selects the time from1861to1949, with the physical analysis, analyzes the regional characteristics of theformation and development of modern Shandong costume, and discusses the effect of modern social factorschange on Shandong costume development from daily dress form, etiquette dress custom, history evolutioncharacteristics, geographical distribution and Qilu culture embodiment. The main research conclusions are asfollows:(1) The daily dress of modern Shandong had three appearances. They were traditional costume, western-stylecostume, the match of Chinese and Western costume. In traditional costume, the up costume mainly included robe,Ao, Gua, Shan, Majia, Dudou, and the down clothes mainly inc luded skirt and trousers, etc. Their maincharacteristics were relatively large size, rich and bright color, planar costume design and more cutting and lesssewing structure. The western-style costume mainly inc luded suit, coat, dress, uniform and so on, and its maincharacteristic was the western dress production process and structure. In addition, western decorations were firstintroduced in coastal cities of Shandong province, and their development promoted traditional costume changes ofShandong especially in coastal areas. The match of Chinese and Western costume included traditional costumechanged after the influence of Western costume culture, Chinese style costume transformed by Western costumeand the perfect combination costume between the Chinese and Western costume culture. These costumes wereinevitable results of the traditional costume culture which began to change under the influence of Westerncostume culture at the background of the Modern society. Overall, the development of modern Shandong costumepresented one exchange process between the Chinese and western costume culture which were graduallytransiting from traditional to the Western. It had its own unique regional characteristics when it complied with theChinese costume development trend.(2) The etiquette costume of modern Shandong mainly included birth costume, wedding costume, funeralcostume. The custom of birth costume included the “red monk shawl dress”when children was born, the “hingehead” ceremony when children grew one month, the “longevity lock” and “clad ceremony” when children grewone hundred days, and the “trying on new shoes”ceremony when children was one years old. Relative to the adultcostume, the children’s costumes of modern Shandong province with blesses of adults were less restrictions andmore freedoms. Costumes occupied an important position in the custom of wedding costume in modern Shandongwhich included the “Zhi Fu Ge Jin” when began to negotiate the marriage, the “Red set” at the engagement, theengage and happiness presents on send day, and finally the wedding wearing at the marriage ceremony. Thewedding costume of Shandong gradually presented development characteristics that from complex to simple and combining the Chinese and the Western under the influences of Western wedding costume culture. Relative to thebirth costume and the wedding costume, the development of funeral costume in modern Shandong was slower.The profound folk culture connotations hidden behind the costume custom were realized from the artistic features,such as the immortality of the soul of ideas and consciousness, heavy ethical filial piety idea, folk beliefs inwitchcraft, the ancestor worship and the pray for the bless of ancestors, etc. Overall, the etiquette costume customof modern Shandong embodied the local folk life and folk psychology of Shandong people, which was importantcarrier of Shandong folk culture.(3) In accordance with the time, the development of daily costume in modern Shandong was divided intofour stages. They were the late Qing dynasty, the Northern Warlord period, the KMT rule established period, theAnti-Japanese War of Liberation period. The costume features of each stage were not identical because of thedifferent rulers and different social background, and they were boiled down to “fusion and absorption”,“blend ofthe new and the old”,“combining the Chinese and the Western”,“slowly development”. In the late Qing dynasty,the development trend of Shandong costume was the gradually fusion of Chinese women between the Manchuand the Han nationality and the absorption of the Western costume cultural elements. In the Northern Warlordsperiod, Shandong costume presented change trends of blending the old and the new as well as violent unrest andsteady development. In the establishment period of the KMT, the costume combining the Chinese and the Westernappeared in Shandong. In the Anti-Japanese War of liberation period, most people’ life were poor because of thewar. The development of Shandong costume was very slow. It can be say that the costume development inmodern Shandong had the dualism of traditional clothing inheritance and western culture implant. This costumephenomenon was caused by Shandong people who wanted to adapt the basic needs of simple, practical life underthe change bigger social background of the Modern times. It embodied the value trend of changed pursuit ofShandong people in the process of material culture change.(4) The climate condition, work environment, land condition, biological resources and other naturalgeographical environment in Shandong played important roles on the formation and development of modernShandong costume. Due to the early influence of the western costume culture, the eastern coastal area of modernShandong first achieved the leadership positions and led the inland areas dress on. The costume of middle andnorthwest inland areas in modern Shandong were affected and followed to move ahead. However, because theywere the birthplace of Qilu culture and deeply influenced by the Confucian culture, the development of theirscostume presented thrift, traditional state. The costume development of southern Yimeng mountain area wasslower and it presented backward, conservative state because of the influence of war as well as the geographicallimitations. From the colorific of internal areas, the costume of most rural population in modern Shandong kept intraditional costume forms, and the costume of the people in the city presented the characteristics of combiningChinese and Western due to the influence of Western culture. The costume progress of commercial port area wasrelatively fast because of more foreign trades, more foreign contacts and bigger external influences. The farmingarea basically retained its original natural economic development state, and its costume development was greatlybehind commercial port area. As a whole, the costume of modern Shandong appeared diversification, voguemomentum of development, and its dress culture was to finalize a regional costume culture system, which had aprominent position in the national geographic patterns of costume culture.(5) The Shandong costume under the influence of the Confucian ethical culture had its own dressed andaesthetic system. The traditional costume rules were viewed as organic combination of dressed daily life and dailyconsumption with the feudal ethical culture from the color, shape, pattern, jewelry, accessories of traditionalcostume. The mean thought and harmony thought between man and nature that the Confucian culture claimedwere deeply affecting the whole development process in traditional costume, and became deep-rooted aestheticsense. From the morality of gentleman and women as well as the loyalty and filial piety, it can be seen that thewhole costume system formed by the foundation of rites of Chou were blend well together with the ritual and themoral education. The costume form which belonged to the needs of dress level greatly showed the moral order of ancient feudal ethics in order to retain the social superiors and inferiors. The Confucian ethical thought hadcompliance and resistance in the costume development of modern Shandong. The shadow of traditional costumethought under the influence of the Confucian ethical thought on modern Shandong costume culture was seen fromthe people’s everyday costume behavior, phenomenon as well as material objects which were handed down fromancient times. The changes in daily dress concept of modern Shandong people were obviously realized from NoFoot Binding Movement, Cut Braided Agitation, and material objects handed down from ancient times. It can besay that the compliance and resistance of modern Shandong costume culture under influence of Confucian ethicalthought were change miniatures of the traditional Chinese costume culture, they played certain supplements andempirical effects to further study of Chinese costume culture. Finally, when getting full appreciation of thedevelopment course of modern Shandong costume, we found that all of the performances of Shandong peoplewhether in the costume change or in the transformation of traditional costume concept had a close relationshipwith the character of Shandong people which was formed under the influence of Qilu culture. Overall, the entirecostume change process of modern Shandong all had deep imprint of psychology and character of Shandongpeople.(6) The social changes of political, economic and cultural factors of modern Shandong led to customchanges of Shandong costume. Political order factors played important promoting roles in costume commands ofpromulgation and implementation as well as costume reforms such as the New Life movement and the finalsuccess of Shandong Ban Foot Binding movement. The continuous economy development in modern Shandongled to the gradually decline of the traditional manual cotton textile industry, and promoted the development oftraditional handicraft industry such as silk reeling industry and silk industry, more important it promoted thegeneration of a batch of emerging handicraft industry such as grass braid industry, lace industry, hair grid industry,etc, which provided necessary conditions for the westernization process of modern Shandong dress. Theunbalanced economic development of modern Shandong, the different level affected by the western customs andthe people’ polarization of the economic status expanded regional and class differences of dress evolution. Theycaused final form of new pattern of Shandong costume. From the perspective of exchange between the Chineseand the Western culture, as one kind of cultural carrier, foreign goods took the Western life way into Shandong.They influenced and changed the face and inherent culture of Shandong people. The concessions in Shandongport established by foreign aggressors on the basis of unequal treaties became the window of people to peep andimitate the Western life. The intelligentsia formed by returned students and education development laid animportant class foundation for Shandong costume changes. Newspapers, movies and other media revealed theWestern culture and advocated Western fashion consumptions. They played subtle roles to the change oftraditional dress concept at the same time. Modern missionaries brought Western culture into Shandong. Theirdaily costume influenced people’ everyday costume. They uncovered the prelude of ban foot binding movement.The church school established by them promoted the change of Shandong costume form as well as the pace ofdevelopment forward of the modern Shandong costume. It can be say that the social factors of political, economic,cultural exchange between the Chinese and the Western in modern Shandong played a leading role to thedevelopment of modern Shandong costume. |
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