| In the fashion market, the fit is always a big problem for all manufactures, because it results in frequent garment returns and lots of commercial profit lose. In order to solve this problem, some researchers and designers have tried to find the appropriate ease for a garment, and some of them use high technology to design the garment in 3D CAD programs, some of them worked on how to flatten 3D garment patterns to 2D garment pattern precisely, etc. However, none of them have a scientific system to design good fitting garments in 3D program that not only fit on human body, but can accommodate dynamic postures.;The purpose of this research is to find a very scientific system to design garment patterns in a 3D program and flatten them to 2D patterns, then modify the 2D pattern in a 2D CAD program to give proper seam lines, dart lines, notches and grain line, and finally to fit the garment on a 3D avatar to check the fit before creating the garment out.;The test results of 10 human subjects in the first visit show the back armhole of the standard garment should be enlarged and the lowest armhole point should be lower than the traditional Armstrong garment (standard garment). In addition, some observed problems from the standard garment were solved in the 3D design process; for example, the extra shoulder ease, the high back neck line of the standard garment and lower waist line of the standard garment were all solved since the 3D garment patterns were designed directly on a 3D human avatar.;There are 6 flattening methods in the used 3D programs, and the flattening method with starting node at the corner without fixed edge was found to be the best flattening method, because it was not only precise but also gave a common joint point for four regions on both the front garment piece and the back garment piece.;Compared with 10 regions design method and 16 regions design method, the proposed 8 regions design method was found to be the best design method, since it had very accurate surface area, and it also gave darts at the princess line and the bust line. The back region boundary at back arc line level in the 8 regions design method is more scientific to give more ease at back arc.;In the 3D garment design process, construction lines were built on an avatar, and offset and loft function were used to build solid front and back garment pieces, then both front and back garment pieces were divided into four regions. The flattening method with starting node at the corner with no fixed edge was used to flatten 3D garment patterns to 2D garment patterns, then modified the 2D garment patterns in a 2D CAD program to give seam lines, dart lines, notches and grain line, and fit the garment on the 3D avatar to check the fit of the garment before creating it out.;The comparison of the 3D garment patterns and the standard garment patterns showed that the armhole of the 3D garment is slightly bigger than armhole of the standard garment. The side-seam length of the 3D garment is shorter than the side-seam length of the standard garment, which assists the 3D garment give a more precise waist line level. The waist girth of the 3D garment is bigger than waist girth of the standard garment, which released the pressure of 3D garment from waist and gives a more fitted waist to the human subjects. The result of fit and comfort evaluation from 10 human subjects about the 3D garment and the standard garment showed that the fit of the 3D garment is highly improved under dynamic postures. The findings of this research are important to give researchers and designers a more comprehensive scientific 3D design method, which can benefit the entire garment industry. |
