Towards a three-dimensional theory of pattern drafting: Relationship of body measurements and shapes to pattern measurements and shapes

Finding clothing that fits well can be challenging for female consumers. Poor fit is directly related to pattern measurements and shapes. There is no evidence that current pattern drafting methods are based on scientific knowledge of the relationship between the body and the pattern. Studies indicate that women are least satisfied with the fit of pants; therefore, this study analyzed the relationship of female lower body measurements and shapes to pants sloper foundation pattern measurements and shapes.; A case study research design was used. Seven participants were selected based on differences in crotch shapes because the crotch shape is one of the most problematic areas of pant fit. Data on pant pattern measurements and shapes were collected by drafting and custom-fitting pant patterns for participants. The research variables were: (a) ease amounts at waist, waist-to-crotch height, crotch length, and upper thigh, (b) dart and side seam intake, and (c) the shape of the body's crotch curve relative to the shape of the pant pattern's crotch curve. This investigation compared the theoretical propositions framed in the review of literature to body-to-pattern measurement and shape relationships found in patterns for seven participants.; Proposition 1 stated that ease amounts should be the same regardless of body type and should always be positive. Ease amounts varied more than the stated amounts and may be related to body shape. Ease amounts were positive for upper thigh circumference; positive and negative for waist circumference and waist-to-crotch height; and negative for crotch length.; Proposition 2 stated that darts in a pant pattern should be of an established width, length and number. However, all of these factors varied among participants.; Proposition 3 stated that the pattern crotch shape should correspond to the body crotch shape in width and curvature. Participants' pattern crotch curves were narrower than body crotch curves. Therefore, comparison of the curvature of the two shapes was not possible.; Pattern drafting systems rely on passed down traditions and are not based on scientific knowledge of body to pattern relationships. This study has laid the groundwork for a scientific body of knowledge related to pant sloper drafting.