The Research On Nantong Tubu Apparels Accessoris

Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris are one of traditional apparels&accessories with distinct characteristics in Nantong Region of Jiangsu and are made of primitive textile includes Nantong colored.textile and blue Tubu with design in white with the China intangible cultural heritage.Adhering to traditional culture essence of traditional Han apparel of Chinese and converging the local production and life,Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris formed regional characteristics in aesthetic orientation,folk features and artistic forms in the process of the consciousness with emotion in Nantong population.Most of the studies on Han apparels&accessoris of Chinese are concentrated on the overall evaluation of Han apparels while local civilian clothing fabrics are focused on the aspect of textile manufacturing.However,the regional civilian apparels&accessoris in Nantong is only involved sporadically and is lack of systematic research.Meanwhile,Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris confused with the apparels&accessoris of Qihai and Rugao.In the local opinion,only the person who speaks Nantong dialect is regarded as "Nantongese".Based on current research,the author tries to explore the real sense of Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris.This study on the subject of traditional Tubu apparels&accessoris spread down by the population who spoke Nantong dialect.The author systemically reviewed the historical origin,folk custom legacy,morphological features,technical remainder,aesthetic culture,and thought characteristic of Nantong Tubu apparel through analyzing historical record,data and related results of previous research,investigating the residential district,interviewing old Nantongeses,participating the ceremony activities held by local people and visiting the collections in local museums.The investigation of Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris can be processed systematically in three aspects from matter,behavior to spirit,which has a positive practical significance in cultural industry economy of Nantong admired by local.The internal connection of the thesis is as follows:(1)Exploring and analyzing the existing "cultural ecology" in Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris.Based on analysis of the natural geographical conditions of Nantong and the history,this paper summarized the history,variety and usage of Nantong Tubu and carried out the field investigation on the folk culture legacy of Nantong area and data collection.Furthermore,a foundation for further study will be set up by systematic review of social and historical environment,natural environment,humanity environment,as well as the material basis existed in Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris.(2)This paper studies on the material and morphology of Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris.On the one hand,the remains of Tubu apparels&accessoris were classified referring to the classification of Han apparels&accessoris by head,body and foot wear and a classification system with the characteristics of Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris.On the other hand,the manufacturing technique in the Tubu apparels&accessoris was explored and the key point was from the folk craftsmanship heritage.The technology process and emphasis analyzed by illustration of the handle making craft of pants&women's shirts&the bottom of Tubu shoes,which involving by and large the key technology of typical Tubu apparels&accessoris.The patterns series of Tubu apparels&accessoris have been refined(3)The research on the behavior form of Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris has been done.Folk apparel in baby clothing,manufacturing,wedding or funeral ceremony were analyzed and sorted out by field investigation combined with the local folk literature of Nantong folk custom.The related behavior with the characteristics of the local folk apparels was also documented,including dress collocation,dress etiquette,dress cutting and making,etc.(4)The research studied the spirit of Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris.The emphasizes on spirit in the culture of Tubu apparels&accessoris were managed by the aesthetic and symbolic needs.Based on the "ecological environment" as the background,the objective factors on the formation of aesthetic fashion were analyzed and the aesthetic features of Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris were refined.The mode of thinking and its source were analyzed through the cultural phenomenon which met the spiritual demand derived from the symbolic and behavioral symbols.With the help of the theory of China symbolic cultural studies,the author refined and demonstrated the meaningful relationship between the culture and the symbolic phenomena in Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris,clarified the relationship among,revealed the mechanism to form cultural spirit and internal relationship.(5)The culture creative product of Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris are analyzed and discussed.It has been analyzed that the feasibility& realistic meaning of Nantong Tubu apparels&accessoris culture inheritance by culture creative product development.Based on the case pratice study of cultural and creative product development,this paper discusses the design method and approach to realize the development of culture creative products by the principle of "cultural gene”.The paper also has discussed some points,such as: the retention of cultural genes in culture product development,the contradictions in the consumer's original demand,the preservation of cultural elements in the characteristic region,the value of practical&experience of product.