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The Research Of Clothing Of Royal And Noble In The Early Qing Dynasty

Posted on:2015-01-08Degree:DoctorType:Dissertation
Country:ChinaCandidate:F LiuFull Text:PDF
GTID:1225330467461136Subject:Archaeology and Museology
Abstract/Summary:PDF Full Text Request
Clothing has not only warm utility function, but also carries a lot of meaning in political, economic, cultural, aesthetic, customs, etc. Clothing is a comprehensive characterization of human material life and spiritual life. As a kind of external objects, clothing has a certain form with distinct characteristics of the times. At the same time, as an external symbol, fashion through the close relationship with the body to strengthen the wearer’s concept, the wearer by clothing between language symbol to each other, for silent communication through the system, conventional concept, play the role of information transmission. This article is precisely embarks from these two basic traits of clothing, carding a textual research on the characteristics of the times in the early Qing Dynasty clothing patterns at the same time, through multi angle to restore them in the Qing Dynasty society’s existence, in order to fully show the formation of early Qing Dynasty costumes, causes and evolution. Because of the early Qing Dynasty clothing shape is more complex, the clothing system development to mature, from the initial establishment of clothing form from chaotic to the humble business had experienced a long time. If the entry after the man from the full custom, women are the Manchu customs, Han women from full custom products and civilians from the Han customs, thus taking institutions, dress styles inherited the royal family and nobles of the relatively strong clothing as the main research object.Qing Dynasty subjects from the rise in Liaodong in the mid Ming Dynasty Nvzhen people, it was a tribal alliance, gradually developed into a kinship based military production organization. The royal family and nobles of the concept of group formation is accompanied by the development of society evolved, so we in the introduction at first to the royal family and nobles of the diachronic changes the concept of carding, with the study object of each period. The thesis is divided into five chapters to the evolution of clothing system, form the royal family and nobles of the early Qing Dynasty and in the society at that time existence analysis.In the first chapter, we study the clothing of Nvzhen in Tianming and Tiancong dynasty. The Qing Dynasty clothing system is not accomplish at one stroke, has its own development, conducts the research to the early Qing Dynasty clothing can not bypass the key stage of the Manchu culture, system forming before entering. One of the first stage is the beginning stage costume system, begins with the rise of Nurhachi in Liaodong, ended at the end of the year; The second stage is the costume in the Qing Dynasty embryonic stage began in the first year. The first stage of Nvzhen clothing while retaining traditional Manchu clothing characteristics, draws heavily on the clothing of Mongolia and Han nationality element. Held in second phases over ceremony in Huangtaiji, he borrowed from the Han culture built system of asatsuna and grade fashion toward the instrument more standardized, as If the Central Plains feudal dynasty hall style. During this period the first choice to previous costumes language, forming simple grade dress language; at the same time fashion elements on the Mongolia family was learning and evolution further, as a symbol of grade division, such as Ding Dai system is in reference to Mongolia family cap on the top ball decorative way to the evolution of the formation. The two period of the dress system has a common characteristic, is the Han decoration reference continued always. But because of the Han and Manchu decoration system reference the main service in the military and political purpose, in order to improve the governing efficiency, so the clothes with large sleeves dress did not become the fashion from the content, establish the thought formation on the later Qing Dynasty clothing style has a profound influence.The second chapter systematically in the early Qing Dynasty Royal family and nobles of the costume system evolution of a sort. The history of each dynasty change will produce new clothing system, the overall point of view, the provisions of the clothing system division to the clothing level is more and more strict and meticulous, and with the surrounding nations and the central Chinese civilization constantly fusion, dress form reflects the diversification trend, the pluralistic trend gradually reflected in the costumes in the system, the Ming Dynasty clothing system constitutes the final development state of two trends. The social structure of the Qing Dynasty evolved since the initial Niu Lu the Eight Banners system above, is accompanied by the social system of the Ming Dynasty gradually formed the reference rating system; the Qing Dynasty costume language is in the initial absorption of Mongolian and Han clothing based on evolved. In view of the two are in an unstable phase in the early Qing Dynasty, so will the clothing system of two mutually corresponding is also in constant adjustment and improvement in the state of the early Qing dynasty. Because the research on the evolution of the early Qing Dynasty clothing system is limited, so this paper in the second chapter of the early Qing Dynasty official historical data relates to the royal family and nobles of the costume system and conducted a combing, establish the foundation for the later discussion. Time basic according to different historical periods in Qing Dynasty division, that is Chongde, Shunzhi, Kangxi, Yongzheng and Qianlong, The Qianlong period ending in the middle of Qianlong.In addition to blunt rules and regulations, the specific form of the development of rheological explore its every period costumes from the subtle to visually show the existence of clothing. Several aspects of the third chapter from the royal family and nobles dress style, decoration, aesthetic taste, related production mechanism and so on, to explore its development in the early Qing dynasty. The most important of which is the evolution of style of clothing, the paper classified according to gender, as the basis for each category are determined by the Qianlong period clothing standard item by item analysis, to trace the since the beginning of the Qing Dynasty Qianlong medium-term evolution process, some of which content is less categories will be combined. The second is the evolution of clothing decoration, due to hold a very open attitude of the early Qing Dynasty Royal family and nobles reference to Han ornamentation, therefore cause ornamentation types in clothing is various, so we in this section can only extract Lomon pattern, moire, sea cliff lines and other three kinds of frequently appeared in the royal family and nobles dress in the subject as the main line, in accordance with the time sequence observation was the royal family and nobles of the development trend of clothing decoration style. The third chapter of the first two image data in each period is given priority to, supplemented by written historical records, the specific circumstances of visually presenting the evolution of the costumes. After two to historical records, evolution and weaving capacity and technology mainly analysis the aesthetic fashion apparel. The development process of the evolution of aesthetic fashion mainly explores the formed by the economic development policy and imperial Dress Costume period from economy to luxury; production development mechanism is focused on to clothing production organization section, function and organization of production, the mode change, reveal the influence to directly or indirectly to the early Qing Dynasty Royal Family and noble dress produced.The chapter of the main features of each period of fashion in the early Qing Dynasty from the macroscopic angle of carding and research, the fourth chapter focuses on the micro perspective, such as tribute, the craftsmen of the circulation, the circulation of commodities, the social member identity multiplicity and social activities, will dress is embedded in the earlier stage of Qing Dynasty society to observe at present, the early Qing Dynasty Royal and aristocratic dress existence diversity at the same time, the formation mechanism and propagation mode research of fashion.In the process of the formation of costume in the Qing Dynasty and morphology, Han costume culture has a profound impact on its, so special study on this question in the fifth chapter. This chapter first from the Qing Dynasty rulers and their ancestors in the development process by the common influence of Han culture as a starting point for research, the Han nationality clothing culture influence on Manchu dress culture in a broader social context for discussion. Then this paper attempts to explore in Manchu rulers of the Han costume system gradually reference case, the Qing Dynasty costumes from bovine recorded how system uniform system eventually evolved into the feudal hierarchy clothing rigorous system. Finally, this article from the "take the disposable" dress policy, explore the different effects of patterns and styles of early Qing Dynasty Han clothing culture of Qing Dynasty Royal and aristocratic dress produced.Costume in the Qing Dynasty Qianlong since entry prior to continue to adjust, thirty years of Qianlong left party formed with the code system, publication printing, promulgation of national. The early Qing Dynasty is a key period of the Qing Dynasty and the shape of the dress system forming, it is this period a series of clothing system promulgated, to promote the perfection and development of the Qing Dynasty clothing system, form, established the Qing Dynasty costume pattern. Therefore, the study of the early Qing Dynasty Royal and aristocratic dress is mainly divided into two parts of system study and morphological study. The process of formation, development in investigate the clothing system, mainly uses the historical record in history, dating the embodiment of the historical development of the context. In the discussion of clothing form evolution, this paper mainly uses the historical image, handed down real and historical records to support each other’s way, to show the early Qing Dynasty Royal and aristocratic clothing. At the same time, as Gehrz said, people are animal suspended in his own weaving on the significance of the network in the establishment, clothing and conventional formation of meaning through the system, also is the human culture of the network in the presence of. This article hoped through will be related clothing and making mechanism, aesthetic fashion, the circulation of commodities, identity change, social activities, cultural integration and other aspects of the link appears in early Qing Dynasty, the royal family and nobles dress to the existence of more vigorous way.
Keywords/Search Tags:Clothing of the early Qing Dynasty, Royal family and nobles, systemevolution, fashion communication
PDF Full Text Request
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