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Study On Women Costumes Of Special Han Ethnic Groups(Huian Women And Gaoshan Han)

Posted on:2015-10-29Degree:DoctorType:Dissertation
Country:ChinaCandidate:L NiuFull Text:PDF
GTID:1221330467961926Subject:Textile Engineering
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Special Han Chinese ethnic groups are out of the main traditionally Han communities ingeography, culture and other aspects.It is different from Han population but belong to it. Inthe trend of Modernization, these special groups of Han are not as the same as the mainstreamHan, which deeply affected and deprived by modern thoughts and western culture. Thesespecial Han groups have always insisted on wearing their traditional folk costumes.Meanwhile, on the basis of traditional costumes, they have added new features and elementsto form their own special costumes according to their life.Huian group and Gaoshan Han group are typically representatives of special Hanpopulations. Their special history, geography and cultural environment bestow these ethnicgroups with special requirements for clothing. In this paper, the changes of special womencostumes of Huian women group and Gaoshan Han group, as two representatives of specialHan ethnic groups, have been the research objects, in order to explore the heritage and choicesof Han people under special historical, geographical and cultural environment. Specificstudies are as follows:First, this paper focus on combing, concluding and comparing the costume formation ofspecial Han ethnic groups in history, geographical, cultural background and other aspects. Interms of ethnic origin, Huian group derives from Baiyue group, as a result of Han assimilation.And the Gaoshan Han is be made up of people within the main Han population from differentplaces, and at last they live together among minorities and becoming a special Han group. Wecan say that the formation and development of both ethnic groups have the shadow ofminorities. However, in terms of the living conditions and psychological roots, Gaoshan Hanwomen are much closer to the traditional mainstream Han women in the customs, aesthetics,and the Huian women are more partial to the Baiyue group. In geographical terms, Huianwomen are living in eastern Fujian Strait, deeply affected by the culture of marine andfisheries. Gaoshan Han women, living in the mountains, are influenced of the mountains andfarming culture for generations. In view of humanity lives, both the two groups of womenhave maintained a traditional hard-working, thrifty virtues, but also formed their differentclothing psychology due to the different characteristics of Marriage customs.Second, this paper research on the women’s daily apparel shapes, characteristics anddevelopment paths of the two Han ethnic groups from China modern times to now. Bothwomen costumes of Huian and Gaoshan han have undergone several changes from traditionalto modern, we can say that these costumes have kept their traditional style in the changingtimes and adapted to the production environment in the process. Over a hundred years ofchanging, the length of the women clothings in the two groups are gradually turn shorter,sleeves turn tighter, and the wide pants reflecting the practical beauty of adapting toproduction and their new lives.Third, analysis and restoration of certain costumes, including the Huian womanjoint-sleeved shirt and Gaoshan Han woman Wai-tuo-jian with both pants. Joint-sleeved shirtand Wai-tuo-jian were popular in the early Republican period, and quite typical as their tops. With a certain degree of stability and representativeness, the pants of both groups didn’tchange too much over a century. By comparing the differences between the groups, we get theresults of the ethnic development particularity and selection differences of them.Fourth, on their decorative arts, they both have some accessories and embroidery arts.The Huian women’s decoration are more complicated and colorful, while the Gaoshan’s aremore focused on practical functions. In the garment pattern, two groups of women embroidermythology, religion on clothing accessories, so as to beautify and repose emotion function.Fifth, it analyses the cultural connotations of special Han ethnic women costume. Thispaper research these from three perspectives, including the inheritance and development ofthe original Han ethnic costumes, absorption and reference of ethnic minorities’ clothingculture, and the self-selection of special Han ethnic groups on costumes in particularcircumstances.Sixth, discussion of the heritage and conservation status of the special Han ethnic groupswomen costumes, and propositions of protection measures for their future development. Fromthe perspective of the protection of intangible cultural heritage, the current heritage status ofHuian and Gaoshan Han women costume in different environments and policies have beenanalyzed, corresponding views and opinions on the protection process are given. Meanwhile,the opinion has been given that in the process of gradually changing, directions of costumedevelopment should adapt to daily life and contemporary aesthetic trends. Base on this point,the innovative design have been made.
Keywords/Search Tags:Costume, Han, women, Huian, Gaoshan Han
PDF Full Text Request
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