Comparison And Design Of Jiaxie Between China And Japan

As one of the most essential parts of printing and dyeing craft culture in ancient China,Jiaxie made its way to Japan after the prosperous Tang Dynasty.However,in Yuan and Ming Dynasties,it gradually became little noticed and so hardly mentioned in its related sources that it was considered a lost craft.Fortunately,after the middle of20 th century,with woodblocks of southern Zhejiang Jiaxie,Tibet Jiaxie,India Jiaxie and Kyoto Red Itajime and Izumo Blue Itajime in Japan and remains of workshops successively found,“Jiaxie fever” gripped the academic circle.Now,however,most studies on Jiaxie by experts and scholars at home are confined to domestic scope,and necessary attentions to the comparison and design studies on southern Zhejiang Jiaxie and Itajime in Japan are expected.In this paper,methods like comparative studies and researches on the history of dyed and woven costumes are adopted to sort out and analyze relevant sources,and comparison and design studies on Jiaxie in China and Japan from five perspectives are conducted,such as the history of popularization and evolution,craft,pattern,aesthetic awareness,creation and inheritance.The following six aspects are the academic contributions this thesis can offer.(1)It illustrates main stages of Jiaxie’s origin,popularization and evolution.Given the cultural relic information on Jiaxie eastern spread to Japan,it is proved that Jiaxie was introduced to Japan during Kaiyuan period in Tang Xuanzong’s reign,which in turn indicates that it’s wrong to say Jiaxie originates from Tianbao period in Tang Xuanzong’s reign and from Baoying period in Tang Daizong’s reign.(2)Based on field investigation and summary on practice experience,the crafts in southern Zhejiang Jiaxie and Itajime in Japan will be divided into “dyeing” and“carving”,and considering Itajime in Japan also introduced back to China,a primary proposition on the chain of transmission possibly between Zhejiang Jiaxie and Itajime in Japan are advanced.(3)Based on systematic collation of a large number of woodblocks and image date of southern Zhejiang Jiaxie and Itajime in Japan,classification studies of patterns of Zhejiang Jiaxie and Itajime in Japan are conducted,and the features of their design art are discussed.(4)More attention is given to the aesthetic awareness in current studies on southern Zhejiang Jiaxie and Itajime in Japan,and aesthetic connotations on them are interpreted.(5)Supported by CNC machining,experiments to restore Jiaxie engravings are conducted in a creative manner;which demonstrates the feasibility of CNC machining in the restoration of ancient colored Jiaxie engravings and Itajime engravings in Japan and provides references for how Jiaxie pattern design and modern technology can be connected.(6)This paper summarizes and refines existing problems of the Southern Zhejiang jiaxie,and theoretically explains the innovation heritage and development of the Southern Zhejiang jiaxie from the perspectives of external environment and internal innovation,as well as art,craft and business.