Analysis Of The Design And Technical Characteristics Of Dai Brocade And Evaluation Of Its Thermal-Moisture Comfort

The Dai brocade created by the Dai people in their production and life carries an unique Dai culture,which has had brilliant development in history.However,in the past two decades,it has been deteriorated due to the impact of the modern textile industry.In order to protect and inherit Dai brocade better,it was listed on the national intangible cultural heritage list by the State Council in 2008.In recent years,the trend of "intangible cultural heritage" has swept through the consumer market,and under the huge demand for "intangible cultural heritage" products,the industrial development of Dai brocade has ushered in opportunities.However,as a relatively small minority handmade brocade,the main body of the textile industry does not have a clear understanding for it.In order to strengthen the systematic understanding of Dai brocade in academia,industry,and the public,and to assist in the protection,inheritance,and industrial development of Dai brocade,that is,to provide reference for innovative design,automated production,and functional improvement of Dai brocade,The project investigated the development status of Dai brocade through on-site research in two major Dai inhabited areas,Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture and Dehong Dai Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture.Based on the collected Dai brocade samples and other information,the color and pattern characteristics of Dai brocade were analyzed through color extraction and usage frequency calculation,and the production techniques of Dai brocade were reorganized in combination with textile professional theories.The structural characteristics of Dai brocade fabric were studied through fabric disassembly,and the thermal and wet comfort performance of Dai brocade was comprehensively evaluated through performance testing and grey clustering analysis.The results and conclusions of the project are as follows:(1)Governments at all levels and Dai brocade craftsmen use methods such as publishing Dai brocade books,establishing Dai brocade skill training groups,and organizing training classes to protect and inherit Dai brocade skills.Due to the development of the economy and society,the main way of inheriting Dai brocade skills has changed from family style inheritance to apprentice style inheritance;From the perspective of application,Dai brocade can be divided into clothing(clothing)Dai brocade,decorative(household)Dai brocade,and Dai brocade Buddha flags;Due to limitations in production efficiency and cost of traditional Dai brocade,three alternative fabrics have emerged in the market.The first is the handmade "Dai brocade" produced by neighboring countries,which has a significant price advantage but is still higher than machine fabrics,and its production techniques are not completely the same as traditional Dai brocade.The second is the imported modern fabric of the Dai ethnic group,which has the advantages of novel design,rich variety,and more affordable prices,But its color and pattern differ greatly from traditional Dai brocade;The third type is the domestic and foreign machine imitation of "Dai brocade",which innovatively designs and automates production while retaining the traditional handmade Dai brocade pattern features.However,due to machine weaving,it is not possible to achieve the unique shuttle digging process.(2)In terms of color attribute characteristics of Dai brocade,the tones of Dai brocade in both regions are concentrated in the red and adjacent orange and purple red tones.The difference is that the distribution of Dai brocade tones in Xishuangbanna is only second to that in the blue color range,while the distribution of Dai brocade tones in Dehong is the least in this range.The saturation of Dai brocade in both regions shows the highest proportion of high values,followed by low values,and relatively low proportion of medium values,Among them,Dehong Dai brocade has a higher proportion of high saturation values and a lower proportion of low saturation values,making the overall saturation of Dehong Dai brocade higher than that of Xishuangbanna.Both Dai brocades mainly use high brightness colors,with brightness most commonly distributed between 70% and 80%.The overall brightness of Dehong Dai brocade is higher than that of Xishuangbanna Dai brocade;In terms of color matching characteristics of Dai brocade,both regions mainly focus on red and its adjacent orange and purple red color combinations.Among them,Dehong Dai brocade has a more prominent feature.At the same time,the red color series in Xishuangbanna Dai brocade is most commonly used for matching with various color systems,while Dehong Dai brocade has a purple red color series.(3)The main themes of Dai brocade patterns include geometric patterns,plant patterns,animal patterns,architectural patterns,textual patterns,and character patterns.Both regions use geometric patterns the most,while plant patterns are also used more frequently,with less use of character patterns.The difference between the two regions is that Xishuangbanna uses animal patterns and architectural patterns more,while Dehong uses textual patterns more.The reason for this is believed to be related to the differences in the influence of Buddhist culture;The composition forms of Dai brocade patterns include single pattern,bipartite continuous pattern,and quadrilateral continuous pattern.The Dai brocade patterns in both regions show a characteristic of quadrilateral continuous pattern being more than quadrilateral continuous pattern being more than single pattern,and the characteristic of quadrilateral continuous pattern being the main feature in Dehong Dai brocade is more prominent.(4)The production process of Dai brocade yarn includes cotton picking and drying,cotton binding,elastic cotton,rolled cotton,yarn spinning,soaking(sizing),dyeing,secondary sizing and washing and drying.The Dai brocade looms in Xishuangbanna and Dehong include full frame curtain low pattern looms,half frame curtain low pattern looms and a newly discovered half frame curtain low pattern looms.The pre weaving preparation techniques of Dai brocade include warping,combing before warp wearing,warp wearing The process of combing thread and rolling weft varies depending on the weaving machine.The weaving techniques of Dai brocade include ground weave weaving and floral weave formation,with floral weave formation mainly being floral jacquard and manual weaving as auxiliary.(5)The overall organizational structure of Dai brocade is a local use of double weft weaving.The ground weft system of Dai brocade and the ground weave composed of warp yarn are generally a double flat organizational structure.In addition to the main weft weaving structure,some Dai brocade also includes a digging shuttle structure to play a rich role in patterns and colors.The digging shuttle structure used in Dai brocade can be divided into two types: floating and sinking method and winding method,Both can improve the richness of Dai brocade patterns and colors while avoiding excessive thickness of Dai brocade.The float and sink method has smaller restrictions on float length due to the process,and the types of patterns that can be woven are more diverse.On the basis of the float and sink method,the loop method further reduces back float to make Dai brocade fabric lighter and thinner.However,the types of patterns that can be woven using this method are relatively single.(6)In the collected physical samples of Dai brocade,the permeability and wet rent of Xishuangbanna samples are lower than those of Dehong samples,while the permeability of Xishuangbanna samples is higher than that of Dehong samples.The thermal conductivity of the two samples is similar,and the thermal resistance and wicking height of the two samples have different levels,but the latitudinal wicking height of the two samples is significantly higher than their meridional wicking height;Based on the test results,grey clustering analysis was conducted to obtain a comprehensive evaluation of the thermal and wet comfort of the Dai brocade samples:the No.1 Dai brocade sample collected from Xishuangbanna and the No.5 Dai brocade sample collected from Dehong were considered "good";The No.2 Dai brocade sample collected from Xishuangbanna is’ medium ’;The Dai brocade samples No.3 and No.4collected from Dehong were classified as "poor",sorted as 5,1,2,4,and 3.It can be seen that the thermal and wet comfort of the collected Dai brocade samples in the physical sample set is not correlated with the region of collection.