| With the improvement of modern living standards,people’s pursuit of beauty is increasingly prominent,and hair dye as an important part of decorative beauty,its safety and efficacy more and more attention,more people began to pay attention to natural plant hair dye.As a special lint product in China,gallnut not only has the advantages of green health,high efficiency and safety,but also has high polyphenol content,which can effectively form colored macromolecular complexes with metal ions in hair.In this paper,the extraction technology,dyeing technology and formula preparation of gallnut were studied systematically,aiming at developing a green and healthy natural plant hair dye.In the pre-screening experiment,different plant dye solutions were extracted from pomegranate bark,dioscorea,gallnut,walnut bark,black bean bark,sappanthus extract,tea polyphenol extract,myrtle and Ligustrum fructus in water bath under the same conditions.The complexation reaction with Ca2+,Mg2+,Al3+,Zn2+,Cu2+,Fe3+and Fe2+ions was carried out in the hair respectively.By comparing the color depth and gloss of the hair after dyeing,it was found that the black dyeing effect of gallnut complexation with Fe2+was the best.In order to optimize the extraction of gallnut poiyphenol by constant temperature oscillation in water bath,the standard curve of gallic acid was drawn by using folin phenol colorimetry,and the extraction rate was calculated by related formulas.Through the single factor analysis and Box-Behnken response surface optimization analysis,the optimum technological parameters of extracting polyphenols from gallnut were as follows:ethanol solvent with volume fraction of 51%,liquid-material ratio of 16:1,and shaking extraction at 62℃for 36min.Under this condition,five parallel experiments were carried out,and the extraction rate of polyphenols was78.30%,which was close to the prediction result of response surface model.The gallnut extract prepared under the condition of response surface optimization was distilled under vacuum pressure to remove ethanol,and the remaining water extract was used as dye to dye the hair.Sensory evaluation and Lab characterization were used to investigate the influence of dyeing methods and dyeing conditions on the hair dyeing effect.The results showed that:(1)Compared with several different dyeing methods,the dyeing effect was in the following order:dyeing before medium>dyeing after medium>same bath dyeing>direct dyeing.However,the hair could be dyed black by first dyeing after medium,first medium dyeing after medium dyeing and same bath dyeing,while the hair could not be colored by direct dyeing.(2)By comparing the influence of dyeing conditions on hair dyeing effect,it is concluded that the optimal technological conditions of gallnut dyeing solution are:a.Pretreatment process:7%LBS composite pretreatment agent and 1%osmotic enhancer K-12 were used for 25min at p H=9.30 and 50℃.b.Dyeing process:In the gallnut dyeing solution with p H=8.00,dyeing at 50℃for 20min;c.Dyeing process:Fe2+with 5%concentration was adopted for 15min at 20℃.According to the above experimental results,a simple three-dosage hair dye with gallnut plant was developed,and a matching color fixing conditioner for repairing damaged hair after dyeing was also developed.(1)The physicochemical properties of heat resistance,cold resistance,centrifugation and p H values of hair dye and conditioner were measured respectively.The results showed that the p H values of the two products were in line with the prescribed standards,and both had good heat resistance,cold resistance and centrifugal stability.(2)The optimized hair dyeing process of gallnut hair coloring agent was obtained as follows:pretreatment of agent A at 50℃for 25min;Coloring of agent B at 50℃for 15min;Agent C was incubated at 20℃for 15min.(3)After repeated washing,according to the change of the color differenceΔE*of the hair,the color fixing effect of the color fixing conditioner is investigated.The results show that the color fastness to washing of the two groups of hair after dyeing using color fixing conditioner and without using color fixing conditioner are better,and the color fastness of the hair after dyeing using color fixing conditioner is better,but the color fastness of the hair after dyeing using color fixing conditioner is better.Especially when washing more than 20 times,the color fastness of wet treatment is obviously deepened,and the hair is more smooth.(4)According to the SEM scanning electron microscope,the natural white hair without dyeing,the hair dyed by the gallnut plant hair dye,and the hair repaired by the fixed color conditioner after the gallnut plant hair dye were tested.It was found that the surface of the hair with color fixing conditioner after dyeing was smoother than that without color fixing conditioner,and the convex phenomenon of the hair scale was significantly weakened. |