Whitening And Anti-aging Screening Of Cinnamomum Camphor Seed Kernel Polyphenols And Their Application In Cosmetics

With the gradual improvement of people’s living standards and the increase in interest of beauty,cosmetics have become daily necessities in modern life.Besides,whitening and anti-aging cosmetics are the most widely demanded,which containing natural products have a good response.Cinnamomum camphor seed is very abundant in China,and the polyphenol of Cinnamomum camphor seed kernel(CCSK)has rich biological activity,Therefore,the study of whitening and anti-aging effect of polyphenol and apply it to cosmetics can provide a theoretical basis for the high-value utilization of CCSK.In this paper,the extraction process and composition analysis of CCSK polyphenol were carried out,and its antioxidant activity and inhibition of tyrosinase activity were systematically studied,and finally the performance of CCSK polyphenol’s emulsion was studied.Conclusions are as follows:(1)The optimal process conditions for ethanol extraction of polyphenols from CCSK were determined by single-factor and orthogonal experiments: extraction temperature of 40°C,extraction time of 1 h,ethanol concentration of 60%,materialliquid ratio of 1:20 g/mL,and yield of CCSK polyphenols was 3.67%.The crude polyphenols extracts(CPE)of CCSK were separated and purified by reversed-phase C-18 column,which eluted by 20% methanol solution has the best whitening and antiaging effects(PE-20%).The composition of PE-20% was preliminarily identified by using the technology of UPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS and Mass bank database,mainly including 8 compounds such as Isorhamnetin 3-O-glucoside,Pelargonidin 3-Oglucoside,etc.(2)The antioxidant ability of CCSK polyphenols were investigated,including DPPH,ABTS,CUPRAC,and FRAP,and the results showed that the CCSK polyphenols had excellent antioxidant and metal reduction capabilities.The inhibition of tyrosinase activity of CCSK polyphenols was determined by using ultraviolet method,and the result showed that PE-20% had a significant inhibitory effect on tyrosinase.The inhibition mechanism of PE-20% on tyrosinase was studied by using enzymatic kinetics method,and the results showed that PE-20% exhibited mixed-type inhibition of tyrosinase,PE-20% may inhibit tyrosinase activity by chelating with copper ions.The cellular antioxidant and reducing the content of intracellular melanin of PE-20% was explored by constructing a cell model,and the results showed that PE-20% can effectively reduce the content of melanin in B16F10 cells;PE-20% had excellent cellular antioxidant.The cellular antioxidant activity value of PE-20% was higher than Trolox.(3)The emulsion was prepared with PE-20% of CCSK and the formula was optimized.The formula F14(Span 80: 1.5%;Tween 60: 2.0%;1,3 Butylene glycol6.0%;Glycerol: 4.0%;cetearyl alcohol: 1.0%;Camphor seed oil: 6.0%;Isopropyl isostearate: 1.0%;Polydimethylsiloxane: 2.0%,lanolin: 4.0%;Sodium hyaluronate:0.1%;Allantoin: 0.02%;PE-20%: 0.01%)had the characteristics of good stability and good skin feeling.By comparing with a commercially whitening emulsion,it was found that PE-20% emulsion had stronger ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity and DPPH free radical scavenging activity,which had excellent whitening and anti-aging effects.Conclusion: PE-20% of CCSK had excellent antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition ability in-vitro.The whitening emulsion prepared with PE-20% had the effect of whitening and anti-aging.Therefore,PE-20% can be used as a sustainable source of active ingredient for new cosmetics.