Costume,Body And Identity Of Literati In The Republican Period

Costume,body and identity are never conceived as isolated individuals,but as a whole that is intrinsically linked to each other.As we all know,the Republican period was a time of change,and the Republican costume also changed a lot,and the Republican literati were a special and important group,with different costume images and different status.There are numerous studies on the costume of the Republic of China,but the excavation of the body consciousness and identity construction behind the costume is not profound enough,especially from the appearance of the costume of the literati in the Republic of China,restoring and explaining the overall connection between costume,body and identity,which is still basically in a blank state.Focusing on the literati as a group in the Republican period,we explores the body consciousness underneath the costumes of the literati and further elaborates on the influence of body consciousness on the construction of the literati’s identity.On the one hand,it provides a comprehensive understanding of the costume culture of the Republic of China and an in-depth grasp of the body consciousness under the changing costumes,and on the other hand,it helps to understand the intrinsic connection between costume,body and identity and grasp the important role of body consciousness in the structure of the three.The costumes of the literati in the Republic of China are varied and colourful,and can be described as fancy costume in the history of costume,including images of traditional costume,Western-style costume and a fusion of Chinese and Western costumes,and the structure and fabrics of the costumes,as well as the attitudes and styles of the literati towards them,are all different.As the second skin of the body,the body under the transformation of costume must have a role in consciousness.From the appearance of costume,on the basis of the concept of Schusterman’s study of body consciousness,we can learn about the consciousness of the body as a perceptual object,and using the method of phenomenological reduction,we can also explore the consciousness of the body as a perceptual subject.The two levels of body consciousness in turn have different effects on the construction of literati identity.Through the individual elaboration of representative literati such as Hu Shi and Zhang Ailing,we can find that objectified body consciousness may put the construction of literati identity in some difficulties,while subjectified body consciousness accompanied by reflective qualities can construct a clear personal identity,thus recognizing the importance of subjectified body consciousness.Therefore,under the role of body consciousness,especially subjectified body consciousness,the costume images of the literati in the Republic period could successfully construct clear personal identities such as gender identity,ethnic identity and professional identity,making the interaction between costume images and identity construction closer and more complete.The costume,body and identity of literati in the Republican period can be described as presenting an inverted pyramidal structure.The body is at the heart of the tower,holding up the costume and identity on the left and right,keeping them in relative balance,the three being interconnected and interrelated on the material and conscious levels.