| With the development of knitting yarns and the continuous progress of knitting technology,knitted outerwear has a great market potential.Women’s fit garment should meet not only the requirements of aesthetic appearance and fit,but also the requirements of stretchability which allows the wearer to move freely.Knitted fabrics have relatively good elasticity,extensibility and drapability,which give the garments with good elasticity and stretch freedom,but are relatively weak in garment dimensional stability.Knitted weft-inlay fabrics have diverse patterns and good dimensional stability in the weft direction,and are more and more widely used in the development of women’s garment.Although the silhouette and ease-allowance of knitted women’s fit garment have certain similarities with the version of woven garment,the pattern should also be optimized according to the performance of the fabric and the wearing effect.In this thesis,knitted women’s fit top suits and sleeveless dresses are developed based on the woven prototype.The different performances of woven fabrics and different types of knitted fabrics on the garment fitting are analyzed and explored.The patterns are optimized according to the deformation under the wearing condition in order to make knitted women’s fit garment satisfies fitting and stretch comfort at the same time.First of all,based on the woven prototype,patterns of X-shaped fit top suits and sleeveless fit dresses were made.Gray fabrics and circular knitted knitting fabrics were used to make sample garments to compare and analyze the difference of garment fit and appearance when using knitted fabrics or woven fabrics.Secondly,5 kinds of commonly used yarns(cotton,viscose,nylon,polyester,wool)are selected and knitted into 2 kinds of basic structure(flat stitch,jacquard)and 2 kinds of weft-inlay stitches(1+1 weft-inlay based on plain stitch,two-color weft-inlay jacquard).The basic physical properties and garment appearance performance,including comprehensive parameters of hand feeling,elasticity and recovery properties,drape and deformation properties are tested and analyzed.It is found that the tensile elongation of the fabric is significantly related to the structure and yarn composition.The weft elongation of the weft-inlay fabrics is significantly lower than the warp and diagonal,and its warp elongation is better than the other three fabrics of different structures;the longitudinal drape size deformation of the fabric is significantly related to the test position,the dimensional deformation is more obvious at higher position.The relationship between the test position and the longitudinal drape deformation rate is obtained through regression analysis;The elastic elongation property affects the size deformation of suspension to some extent after comparing the elastic elongation and the drape size deformation rules under segmented force.Thirdly,the weft-inlay jacquard wool fabric and jacquard wool fabric are selected for fit garment production with the same pattern,three-dimensional scanning is used to obtain the size of each part of the garment in the state of dressing,and the garment size deformation rate after dressing is calculated.Combining the performance of the fabric and the deformation of the dress size,the pattern optimization plan is proposed.According to the deformation size of different fabrics in different parts,the longitudinal,horizontal and diagonal parts of the top suit,as well as the longitudinal and horizontal parts of the dress are optimized.For the longitudinal part of the suit,the patterns are optimized in sections by using the regression function obtained in the evaluation of the drape size deformation performance:y=3.56+0.61x-0.61x~2 when the knitted weft-inlay jacquard fabric is suspended in the weft direction;y=5.58-2.22x+0.11x~2 when the knitted jacquard fabric is suspended in the warp direction.According to the 1/3,2/3,and 3/3 intervals of the fabric from top to bottom,x takes the values 1,2,3,and y is the longitudinal dimension change rate in different intervals.Finally,three-dimensional simulation software is used for the practice of pattern optimization.The appearance and size changes of garment are evaluated by adjusting the performance of virtual fabrics,and the differences between virtual garment and real garment are compared and analyzed.It is believed that some reference in the appearance simulation effect,size measurement,and wearing pressure can be given after three-dimensional garment simulation.However,in addition to basic parameters considerations such as weight and thickness,the influence of fabric extensibility and softness on clothing deformation in the simulation needs to be considered when similar fabrics with a large weight,a certain degree of stiffness and elasticity in this topic are used.Therefore,three-dimensional simulation technology still has much space for improvement in the application of clothing fit evaluation combined with fabric performance.Through the development and performance testing and evaluation of knitted women’s fit garment,the optimized patterns are proposed in combination with fabric performance and garment fitting effect,which helps to improve garment fitting to a certain extent and provide a certain reference for the subsequent development of knitted fabrics and patterns for knitted women’s fit garment.Besides,new ideas for the development of 3D simulation are proposed. |
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