The Study And Application Of British Men’s Suit Collar Pattern-making Methods In The Late 19th Century

Since the end of the 18 th century to the beginning of the 19 th century,European countries were in a period of turmoil,and thanks to the industrial revolution and the support of overseas colonies,Britain reached the peak of its national power in the middle and late 19 th century.European men’s fashion also entered a new period,namely the Victorian era of British men pay more attention to the structure,craftsmanship and fabrics of clothing.Against this backdrop,Britain had developed into the world’s fashion center for menswear,and the dress code of British men gradually became a global standard and defined the basic rules of modern menswear.Therefore,this project takes the British men’s suit collar at the end of the 19 th century（mainly from 1890 to 1900）as the research object,analyzes the design characteristics of the suit collar shape and structure in this period,summarizes the design method of men’s suit collar structure in this period,and carries out innovative design and application.Firstly,through the collection and collation of literature,an overview of relevant basic theories was conducted to summarize the board features of suit lapels at the end of the 19 th century in multiple aspects,including the basic structure of men’s suits,an overview of the shape and structural features of suit lapels,and further provide theoretical guidance for exploring the board making methods of suit lapels.Secondly,the eye-tracking technology was used to evaluate the attention to each part of the flat lapel,the bump lapel and the green fruit lapel,and the most important part of the lapel was determined to be the lapel part,followed by the deep part of the collar,the collar seat and the lapel part,so as to establish the evaluation criteria for the aesthetics of men’s suit lapels.Then,we found 34 British men’s suit pattern data from foreign books,measured the key research parts of suit lapel structure and established a database,initially analyzed the pattern of suit lapels,obtained the regression formula of barge width,crosstie length and X value（the angle between the bottom line of the collar and the horizontal line of the shoulder）,and the best value range of barge width and barge point position,so as to establish the rapid pattern making method of men’s suit lapels in this period..After that,the design of the sample garment experiment was carried out,and the CAD board making and CLO3 D software were used to try on the sample garment virtually to make sure that the board shape was correct and reasonable before making and evaluating the sample garment.Finally,based on the research on the design method of men’s suit collar structure and the evaluation of the aesthetics of the shape,the innovative design of the suit collar is used as a design point in the practical extension.This project provides new ideas for the study of European historical costume modeling and board making methods,combined with modern fashion trends for innovative design and application.The cycle cycle and basic guidelines of men’s suit fashion prompted the suit collar structure more profoundly influenced generations of designers and fashion trends.The use of digital technology to scientifically and systematically study the structural modeling characteristics of historical period clothing has an important practical guidance significance to promote the application of modern clothing innovative design,and provides new ideas for modern clothing design with high academic value and application value.