Study On The Shaping And Structure Of European Coat Dress From 1890 To 1905

The periodicity of fashion that the influence of historical fashion elements on modern fashion is extensive and far-reaching,while the unique cutting and shaping mode of European historical costume is the forerunner of modern fashion shape design,so the research on the shaping mode and structural characteristics of European historical costume is the necessary measure to explore the influencing factors of modern fashion.At the end of the 19 th century and the beginning of the 20 th century,the whole Europe was influenced by the Art Nouveau Movement.In this period,women's clothing changed from “traditional” to “modern”.This paper takes the European coat dress from 1890 to 1905 as the research object,and analyzes the clothing art style and the modeling and structural characteristics of the coat dress in this period.In this paper,we use literature collection,induction and generalization,statistical analysis,Clothing reproduction,sensory experiment and other research methods to study the following five aspects:The first part discusses the research background and content,purpose and significance of this topic,and clarifies the writing ideas of this paper by introducing the research methods of this topic,and clarifies the innovation of this research and the definition of related concepts.In the second part,first of all,the concept of coat and dress is analyzed,and compared with coat dress,the similarities and differences between them are found,in order to more clearly introduce the definition of coat dress.Secondly,this chapter classifies and explains the styles,silhouettes and structures of coat dress,which is not only the accurate positioning of coat dress,but also can clearly explain the characteristics of its definition,and enrich the clothing categories.The third part summarizes the social background of Europe from 1890 to 1905,analyzes the profound influence of the trend of Art Nouveau on the art style of women's wear at that time,and the important factors of forming the typical “s” shape are that women wear corset and change their body shape.Through the analysis of the pattern blocks of coat dress in this period,we can see that:The shoulder is inflated by using the "lamb leg sleeve" shape,a large number of waist darts and split seams are set to remove the surplus of waist darts for waist closing,and the method of adding triangular cloth to the skirt position to expand the skirt presents a typical “X” shape,It is a direct reflection of the “s” shape art style under the influence of the Art Nouveau Movement,and copies clothing to grasp its shaping law.In the fourth part,using CLO3D virtual technology and sensory evaluation experiment to determine the best calculation method of historical women's body size,a systematic data system of “Coat dress — Pattern block— Human body” is constructed.The main data of the historical female human body trunk are used to complete the reproduction of virtual clothing,and the comparison and evaluation are made between the virtual clothing and the gray clothing.This research shows that it is feasible to apply the research results of historical costume shaping to modern fashion design.The cyclical trend of fashion makes the historical fashion elements have a profound impact on the designers and trend of the generation after generation.It is a trend that the fashion people are constantly pursuing and becomes an indispensable design theme on the runway show every season.