| Fabric hand feel style is a comprehensive evaluation of the physical and mechanical properties of the fabric that act on the human senses and the human brain perceives it.It is the first impression people have on the fabric and an important factor that affects people’s evaluation of the quality of the fabric.Therefore,an objective and quantitative evaluation of the style of the fabric is of great significance for the research and improvement of the feel of the fabric and the enhancement of the added value of the product.The organizational structure of the fabric,the cellulase finishing of the fabric in order to obtain a smooth and soft effect,the liquid ammonia finishing,mercerizing finishing and moisture-crosslinking finishing of the fabric in order to obtain the non-iron and anti-wrinkle effect all contribute to the style characteristics of the textile products.Important role.Based on PhabrOmeter,this article separately studied the effects of fabric structure parameters,different finishing methods and cellulase softening on the feel and style of fabrics.Firstly,28 cotton fabrics with 4 kinds of yarn count,5 kinds of fabric structure and 2 kinds of warp and weft density were designed.The interweaving points of different fabric structures were different from the float thread,which had a great influence on the feel,style and wearability of the fabric.This paper studied the influence of fabric structure on fabric feel style and performance,and used grey correlation analysis method to study the correlation between fabric feel style and wearability and other structural parameters,such as warp and weft density,yarn number,fabric weave coefficient and surface density,and analyzed the key factors affecting fabric feel and wearability.The results show that yarn number,fabric structure and warp/weft density have certain effects on the tensile properties,permeability comfort and feel style of the fabric.Effect is obtained by grey correlation analysis in the primary and secondary order of comprehensive performance of the fabric structure parameters: Weft density > surface density > warp density > thickness > tissue coefficient > yarn number of shares,overall,the fabric warp/weft density,surface density and thickness influence on the various properties of the fabric,and relatively less influence coefficient and yarn number of shares.Then,11 kinds of cotton fabrics with different finishes were selected to study the influence of liquid ammonia finishing,mercerizing finishing and moisture cross-linking finishing on the hand feel style and wearability of the fabrics,combined with fuzzy mathematics to comprehensively evaluate 11 kinds of fabrics,and get the best Routing.The results show that liquid ammonia finishing can improve the tensile properties of the fabric,while mercerizing and moisture cross-linking finishing reduce the tensile properties of the fabric;several finishing methods have significantly improved the air permeability of the fabric,and the moisture permeability has not changed significantly;After mercerizing and liquid ammonia finishing,the fabric stiffness increases,softness,drapability and wrinkle recovery decrease,and it becomes stiff and not easy to deform;because the softening agent is added to the moisturecrosslinking finishing solution,the fabric after moisture-crosslinking finishing The stiffness is obviously reduced,the softness,drape and wrinkle recovery rate are improved,and the fabric becomes soft and waxy.Comprehensive evaluation of each fabric by fuzzy mathematics,the results show that the overall performance of the fabric after liquid ammonia-mercerizedmoisture cross-linking is the best.Finally,the cotton fabric is subjected to cellulase finishing.First,through single-factor experiments,explore the effects of cellulase dosage,treatment temperature,p H,time and bath ratio on the reduction rate,taking performance and feel style,so as to determine the level of each influencing factor.Orthogonal experiments were carried out on the fabrics,and the process analysis was carried out with the reduction rate,breaking strength,and softness as indicators.It was found that the significance of the influence of each factor on these three indicators was significantly different,that is,the results of the orthogonal experiment were intuitively carried out.There are deficiencies in poor analysis.Therefore,fuzzy mathematics theory is used to comprehensively evaluate the performance of fabrics treated with single factor,and finally determine the optimal process: cellulase dosage 2.0%(owf),treatment temperature 55°C,pH value 6.0,treatment time 60 min,bath ratio 1:20,penetrant JFC 2.0g/L.The performance test of the finished fabric showed that the breaking strength of the finished fabric was damaged within20%,the moisture permeability and air permeability were improved,and the hand feeling and visual style were also better improved.After obtaining the best cellulase finishing process,the fabric is finished with chemical softener on the basis of cellulase finishing,and the wearability of the fabric treated with cellulase,softener,and fabric with cellulase and softener are compared respectively.The results show that the cellulase finishing and the chemical softener finishing are synergistic with each other,which greatly improves the finishing effect on the fabric. |
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