Research On The Structure Design Of Modern Chinese Double Breasted Women’s Jacket

The double-front is one of the typical representatives in the traditional Chinese flaperon system.It is the structure with both traditional classical and modern implication in the traditional Chinese clothing system,and it is the classic structural element in the Chinese style clothing design.This thesis takes the Chinese double-breasted blouse from the late Qing Dynasty to the founding of the People’s Republic of China as the research object,combs and analyzes its development context from the perspective of clothing structure,explores the wisdom inheritance of Chinese traditional clothing,and expounds the important significance of historical evolution to the development of clothing.Costume museum of Beijing institute of clothing in this paper,modern private collection,old collection site material collection,folk physical collected a total of 173 pieces of Chinese mandarin female jacket for specific studies in modern times,according to the basic structural changes will be mainly divided into three categories,respectively,cross cutting plane is given priority to the traditional double-breasted coat of existing structure,shoulder slope declinate double-breasted women jacket structure,and combine the western stereo clipping the thought in the western broken shoulder sleeve female double-breasted jacket structure.In the research,through the comparison between some real objects and the cutting literature,the longitudinal comparison analysis of the real data shows that the overall silhouette of the garment is gradually tending to fit from wide to narrow,and the western three-dimensional tailoring method is introduced into the structural tailoring based on the traditional plane structure.In general,modern female mandarin jacket of profile,structure and design in the course of gradual westernization,cuts in western thinking into does not disturb the inheritance of mandarin Chinese clothes,eclecticism between Chinese and western culture and in the double-breasted garment collar double-breasted structure to maintain a consistent style,become a mandarin Chinese clothes symbolization of genes,was ratified.In addition to the convenience and modernity,the double-breasted garment also retains the connotation of Traditional Chinese culture.The study on its structural design can provide certain reference value for the future development of Chinese clothing.