Study On The Costumes Of The Guard Of Honor Paintings In The Northern Dynasties

During the Northern Dynasties,there were intense impact and integration of many kinds of culture and multi-ethnic elements.As the carrier of social and cultural reforms,costumes can show the characteristics of different eras.Chinese costumes had great developed in the Northern Dynasties with a turning point,and the costumes for the guard of honor has also changed as an important part of the etiquette system.At present,there is not enough special research on the costumes of the characters in the paintings on the guard of honor in the Northern Dynasties.The textual research on the new and old problems of the system of the guard of honor and costumes culture in the Northern Dynasty can reflect the historical changes and developments of this period and the laws contained therein more clearly,so as to promote the development of related disciplines.In this paper,the guard of honor in the tomb murals of the Northern Dynasties was taken as the object,to systematically collate and analyze the costumes categories and styles of different identity characters in the guard of honor.And it tried to sum up the style characteristics,collocation evolution and characteristics of the costumes that the Northern Dynasties travel depended on by comparing the ancient documents of relevant periods,combining the image data such as pottery figures and some real costumes.This paper was consisted of six chapters: Chapter I was the review of the current research situation and the discussion of the research contents and methods.Chapter II summarized the changes and characteristics of the instrument system in the Northern Dynasties.On the basis of this,the author analyzed the relationship between the content and character composition of the paintings on the guard of honor,and divides the paraded characters into three groups: leading,central and guarding.Chapter III,IV and V analyzed the specific shape,style characteristics and development changes of the head ornaments,body costumes,foot costumes and other ornaments of the three groups of characters according to the composition of costumes categories.In Chapter VI,the author arranged the costumes style collocation,color collocation and collocation changes of different identity characters,and summarized the costumes characteristics of the characters in the guard of honor in the Northern Dynasties and its influence on later generations on the basis of the study of classification.According to the study,the following conclusions are drawn:(1)The head ornaments of the leading figure in the paintings on the guard of honor of the Northern Dynasties can be divided into two categories: hood and flat towel.There were six styles of hood,among which,the dome skirt hood was the most traditional style,the subsequent soft towel hood,triangular hood and so on are developed from this type.Cockscomb hood was found only in the leading figures of the Northern Wei Dynasty.The flat towel was only worn by the leading figures in the tomb of the royal relatives of the Northern Qi Dynasty.There were trousers pleats,narrow-sleeved robes,half-sleeved coat and frame coat.Pleated coat can be divided into narrow sleeve pleated coat and wide sleeve pleated coat,trousers also have narrow-leg trousers and wide-leg trousers,which were worn tied and non-tied.Narrow sleeve robes can be designed with round collar and cross collar.The armoured cavalry suit was the most characteristic costumes of the leading characters in the Northern Dynasties,which can only be found in the Northern Wei Dynasty.Half sleeve coat is the most common costumes of leading characters in Wanzhang Tomb.Foot costumes include boots and shoes,long trousers tied in the boots was the common way to wear.(2)The head ornaments of the central figure in the paintings on the guard of honor of the Northern Dynasties can be divided into four categories: flat towel,lacquer cage crown,hood and headscarf.The most special type of the head ornaments is the lacquer cage crown worn by the courtiers in the Wanzhang Tomb.The headscarf can be divided into two categories: scarf and shawl,which were found in the tombs of traveling murals in Shanxi area of Northern Qi Dynasty.The body garments include large-sleeve robe,frame coat,robe,double-crotch armour,bright armor and trousers plait.Large sleeve robe should be worn with lacquer cage crown together.The robes are divided into lapel narrow sleeve robes and wide sleeve robes.Wide sleeve robes can only be seen in the Northern Zhou Dynasty,and were all scarlet,with bright armour.Double-crotch structure is simple,with only front chest and back,which was usually worn with lacquer cage crown and towel hanging together.(3)Cavalry warriors and infantry guards in the personnel were dressed the same as the leading rider guards in the leading figures.The costumes of male and female attendants was weaker than the central figures in etiquette.The costumes of male attendants were narrow-sleeved pleats,robes and narrow-leg trousers.The head ornaments of female attendants can be divided into towel cap and cage crown.Hair bun has four styles: four-angle high bun,double bun,crescent bun and curls.The concave top of the towel cap may be exclusive to women.The body garment can be divided into short jacket skirt and robe.There are wide and narrow short jacket skirts,with collar type of narrow sleeve short jacket skirt of cross collar,round collar and lapel;collar for wide sleeve short jacket skirt was cross collar.The lower skirt has monochrome skirt,color skirt and Crotch skirt.(4)The costumes matching of the characters in the paintings on the guard of honor of the Northern Dynasties shows the following three trends: First,Xianbei costumes of the guard of honor was increasingly wide,and gradually Chinesized;Second,as for the costumes matching,Xianbei military costumes with Xianbei characteristics at the beginning gradually turned to be the combination of Xianbei costumes and Han ceremonial costumes;Third,the Chinese cultural costumes was respected.The costumes of the guard of honor in the Northern Dynasties had a profound influence on the costumes of the Sui and Tang Dynasties,mainly in the collocation of costumes color and the shape of costumes.