| In the 21 st century,people pay more attention to the comfort,environmental protection and function of textiles.Flax fiber is favored by consumers for its excellent moisture absorption,breathability,antibacterial ability,UV resistance and antistatic properties.Pure linen fabric has poor elastic recovery,softness and wrinkle resistance.In order to improve the defects of linen products,other fibers are usually used to blend with linen.However,the development of wet-spun linen blended products is difficult.There are few types of linen wet-spun blended products on the market,and with the improvement of people’s living standards,there are higher requirements for the softness,wrinkle resistance and wear resistance of flax wet-spun blended products.Therefore,the development of new linen wet-spun blended yarn is of great significance for enriching the linen market.In this paper,polyester and nylon were blended and wet-spun with linen,respectively,to develop a series of new linen wet-spun blended products,and comparatively studied the properties of linen / polyester,linen / nylon blended yarn and fabric.In addition,the common linen blended products on the market are mainly linen(high ratio)/ polyester wet-spun blended yarns.In order to facilitate people’s production and trade,the predecessors have formulated the industry standard of "Polyester and linen Yarn",but the standard has been used for nearly 10 years.In recent years,it has been found that many indicators no longer meet current requirements.In this study,in order to unify the evaluation criteria of the blackboard score and the dryness indicators,the regression relationship between the blackboard score and the dryness indicators was established.Based on the data collected by the predecessors,the blended yarn experiment was supplemented.Through the above work,the industry standard of "Polyester and Linen Yarn" has been revised.The main conclusions are as follows:(1)Regardless of the blending of flax long hemp and polyester or nylon,as the proportion of blended chemical fiber increases,the breaking strength of the blended yarn first decreases and then rises,and both have the lowest breaking strength when the chemical fiber accounts for 40%;the elongation at break and the evenness of the sliver increase as the proportion of chemical fiber increases.The strength of flax long hemp/ polyester blended yarn is greater than that of flax long hemp/nylon blended yarn,and the elongation and unevenness of the yarn are less than that of flax long hemp/nylon blended yarn.(2)The effects of flax long hemp and short hemp spinning systems on linen/polyester blended yarns and linen/nylon blended yarns are the same.The strength of flax long hemp and chemical fiber blended yarn is higher than that of flax short hemp and chemical fiber blended yarn,but the elongation is smaller than flax short hemp and chemical fiber blended yarn.(3)The bending stiffness of flax long hemp/polyester blended fabric decreases first and then increases with the increase of the proportion of polyester.When the polyester accounts for 30% to 50%.The flax long hemp/nylon blended fabrics of various blending ratios are superior in softness,which is improved by about 60% compared with pure linen fabrics.At the same time,flax long hemp/nylon blended fabric is softer than flax long hemp/polyester blended fabric,its transverse bending stiffness is 30% ~ 50% less than flax long hemp /polyester,and its longitudinal bending stiffness is about 40% ~ 60% smaller.The flax hemp/nylon blended fabrics of various blending ratios are superior in softness,which is improved by about 60% compared with pure linen fabrics.at the same time,(4)The higher the proportion of blended chemical fiber in flax long hemp/polyester and flax long hemp/nylon blended fabrics,the better the wrinkle resistance.The improvement of the wrinkle resistance of polyester on linen blended fabric is significantly better than that of nylon.When the proportion of chemical fiber is increased from 20% to 60%,the flax hemp/polyester blended fabric has a sharp elastic recovery angle from 61.1 ° to 89.5 °,and a slow elastic recovery angle from 68.15 ° to 93.2 °;while the nylon blended textile rapid recovery angle only increases from 53.75 ° to 58.8 ° and slow recovery angle range from 60.4 ° to 77.9 °.(5)After polyester and nylon are blended with flax respectively,the air permeability of the blended fabric of the two decreases gradually.When the proportion of chemical fiber is less than 50%,the air permeability of flax long hemp/polyester and flax long hemp/nylon blend fabrics is not much different;but when the proportion of chemical fiber reaches 60%,the air permeability of flax long hemp/nylon blend fabric is less than flax long hemp/polyester blended fabric.(6)With the increase of the proportion of chemical fiber,the permeability of the flax long hemp/polyester and the flax long hemp/nylon blended fabrics is getting lower and lower,but the overall effect on the permeability of linen fabric is not obvious.Compared with pure linen fabrics,the rate of decrease in the moisture permeability of blended fabrics is only about 17%.The moisture permeability of flax long hemp /polyester blended fabric and flax long hemp/nylon blended fabric is not much different.In all blended fabrics,the moisture permeability of polyester blended fabric is only 0.7% ~ 8% higher than that of nylon blended fabric.(7)As the proportion of blended fibers increases,the abrasion resistance of the fabric becomes better and better.However,the abrasion resistance of flax long hemp/nylon blend fabric is significantly better than flax long hemp/polyester blend fabric.At each blending ratio,flax long hemp/nylon blend fabric is more than 20% higher than the flax long hemp/polyester blend fabric,and the highest can be up to 47%.(8)The revised standard raises the requirements for the strength,coefficient of variability of breaking strength,coefficient of variation of linear density and deviation rate of linear density of linen/polyester blended yarns,and adds the coefficient of variation of uniformity,kilometer thin place number(-50%),kilometer thick place number(+50%),kilometer nep number(+200%).This study established a linear regression relationship between CVm(%)y1,kilometer thin place number(-50%)y2,kilometer thick place number(+50%)y3,kilometer nep number(+200%)y4 and blackboard score x : y1=36.327-0.104x;y2=5955.115-46.136x;y3=2673.693-16.330x;y4=6342.006-23.914 x. |
