Preparation Of Dendranthema Morifolium Cv.gongju Active Raw Material And Its Application In Cosmetics

Dendranthema Morifolium cv.Gongju is a traditional Chinese herbal medicine,it contains a variety of active ingredients,which has the effects of delaying aging,lowering blood pressure,clearing fever and detoxifying,clearing liver and eyesight.In this paper,the antioxidant active ingredients chlorogenic acid and cynaroside were used as indicators to optimize the extraction process of Gongju by the response surface method,macroporous resin,and other methods.Then add the Gongju active raw material to the essence base formulation,and discuss the anti-aging efficacy of it through in vivo evaluation.The specific experimental results are as follows:?1?Separate and purify the active ingredients chlorogenic acid and cynaroside from Gongju by macroporous resin,polyamide chromatography,and hydroxypropyl dextran?Sphadex LH-20?chromatography.The prepared monomers were analyzed qualitatively and quantitatively by hydrogen spectrum,mass spectrometry,and standards.The results showed that the purity of cynaroside was 97.54 %,and the purity of chlorogenic acid was 94.21 %.Then through DPPH free radical inhibition experiments,found that the inhibition rate of chlorogenic acid(IC₅₀: 54 ?g/mL)and the inhibition rate of luteolin(IC₅₀: 50 ?g/mL)were slightly lower than VC(IC₅₀: 34 ?g/mL)and better than VE(IC₅₀: 77 ?g/mL),has a strong DPPH free radical suppression effect.?2?Chlorogenic acid and cymaroside were used as index components,response surface was used to optimize the total yields in Gongju.Based on this,the purification process of chlorogenic acid and cynaroside in Gongju was further studied by macroporous resin.The anti-oxidative activity of Gongju extract before and after purification was compared by the inhibitory effect of DPPH radical.The results showed that the optimal extraction process is: temperature: 81 °C;time: 97 min;concentration: 65 %;solid-liquid ratio: 1:42.Under these conditions,the total content of the index components can be extracted up to 7.02 ± 0.172 mg/g;The optimal purification process was: macroporous resin HPD600,the loading concentration is 10mg/mL,the loading p H 3,the loading flow rate is 3 mL/ min,and the desorption solvent is 1 times amount of 70 % ethanol.Under these conditions,the effect of purified Gongju extract DPPH free radical scavenging(IC₅₀: 40 ?g/mL)is nearly 5 times higher than the unpurified(IC₅₀: 177 ?g/mL),and is better than chlorogenic acid(IC₅₀: 54 ?g/mL)and cymaroside(IC₅₀: 49 ?g/mL),which achieves the purpose of synergy.In order to improve the stability of Gongju active extract,it was compounded to obtain a stable Gongju active raw material.?3?The Gongju active raw material was added to the essence base formulation,when the added amount less than 15 %,it has a good stability.There is no metal residue,and it is nonirritating to human skin.Gongju anti-aging essence has a certain moisturizing effect,which can effectively reduce the size of eye wrinkles,dent volume,improve skin roughness,and increase the overall thickness of the skin.